Pumpkin, Squash and Apples, Oh My

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Feasting On Autumn Bounty

A reader recently asked for a recipe for soup made with pumpkin or squash and apples. He had found recipes that involved apples as garnish, but that was not the way the original soup he recalled enjoying was made. It was also not the kind of squash soup flavored with curry and cilantro. Did I have any ideas?

As it happens, I love both pumpkin and squash and eat quite a bit of both (to the astonishment of my kids). In fact, one of my favorite things to eat when I am cooking for myself is pureed squash with orange juice and lots of pepper. This hardly qualifies as a recipe, but the concept can be turned into a tasty soup very easily, as you can see below. As always, when you use citrus rinds in food, be sure to buy organic oranges to avoid eating the fungicides that linger in the skins.

A Squash To Eat Whole

The long, slender, orange and brown striped squash called Delicata makes a marvelous soup or puree with a rich but delicate flavor. I especially love this squash because the thin rind is as tasty as the filling, so you can eat it skin and all, just like a baked potato (if both are organically grown, of course). Since so many nutrients cluster just under the skin, eating Delicata squash whole boosts its nutritional impact as well.

These slim squashes can  also be split in half lengthwise, stuffed with almost anything (try onions, walnuts, and mushrooms), then baked for a delicious vegetarian entree. Stuff halved smaller ones with onion, salsa, and black olives for a snappy side to serve with baked chicken or fish.

A Trio of Autumn Soups

Looking back through my own recipe files, I found quite a few recipes for pumpkin soup, some of which include apples. The sweeter version uses dessert apples for extra body. My notes say to use Cox’s Orange Pippins, but Bramleys are also excellent. Any sweet, fragrant apple will taste great in this recipe, so try several different kinds or use a combination of your favorites. If you don’t like soups with a chunky texture, gently squish the apples with a fork or potato masher before adding the pumpkin pulp.

Peppery Squash Soup

1 teaspoon fruity olive oil
1 teaspoon butter
1 onion, chopped
1 ancho chile pepper, finely chopped
2 cups fresh or frozen squash puree
1 organic orange, juiced, with grated rind
OR 2-3 tablespoons orange juice concentrate
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
sea salt and pepper
4 tablespoons Greek yogurt (optional)
1/2 cup diced Honeycrisp apple

Heat oil and butter in a saucepan over medium high heat. Add onion and chile pepper and saute until onion is limp. Stir in squash and orange juice, adding rind to taste (start with 1 teaspoon). Stir in broth and season to taste with salt and pepper (I use lots). Heat through and serve hot, garnished with yogurt and diced apple.

Pumpkin and Apple Soup

4 cups milk (rice milk works fine)
2 cups dessert apples, peeled and diced (1/4 inch pieces)
4 cups pumpkin pulp (fresh or canned) OR squash puree
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon coriander powder
1 teaspoon coriander powder
Sea salt and pepper
1 tablespoon organic pasture butter

Heat milk and apples in a saucepan over medium high (do not boil) until  milk is hot and apples are soft (about 10 minutes). Add pumpkin pulp, stirring until smooth. Stir in sugar and spices, adding salt and pepper. Heat milk and apples in a saucepan over medium high (do not boil) until  milk is hot and apples are soft (about 10 minutes). Add pumpkin pulp, stirring until smooth. Stir in sugar and spices, adding salt and pepper to taste. Heat through and serve, garnishing each portion with a pat of butter (eat when butter melts).

Hearty Pumpkin Soup

This more savory soup includes chunks of lean ham. A smoky, relatively un-salty, organically raised ham makes this hearty dish especially memorable. For this one, almost any kind of apple will do, though a tart, snappy variety like Fuji or Granny Smith tastes especially good. If you prefer a richer flavor and more velvety texture, substitute milk or heavy cream for half the broth.

Pumpkin Soup With Ham

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon butter
1 onion, chopped
2 cups apples, peeled and diced (1/4 inch pieces)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
4 cups pumpkin pulp or squash puree
1 cup lean smoked ham, diced (1/4 inch pieces)
Sea salt and pepper
4 tablespoons Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons parsley, stemmed

Heat oil and butter in a saucepan over medium high heat. Add onion, apples, and thyme and saute until onion is golden and apples are soft. Add pumpkin or squash and stir until smooth. Stir in broth and ham and heat gently (do not boil). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm, garnished with yogurt and parsley.

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