A Nifty Native Willow For The Garden

Preserving Winter Pussies

For many years, my family collected bouquets of catkins to celebrate my youngest son’s birthday in mid-January. Silky grey and soft as kittens, these fat, furry flowers came from an elderly western willow, Salix scouleriana, that liveds in our front yard. Nowadays, we have to wander further afield to glean our twigs, but it doesn’t take more than a few minutes of walking to locate a good-sized pussy willow blooming away by the roadside. Though this species is rarely grown in gardens, I think it is an ornamental creature, with felted, silver-backed leaves that make a handsome backdrop to a mixed border.

In the wild, scouler willows grow into graceful small trees (15-30′), but in small gardens, they are easily kept shrubby by regular thinning. If a young plant is cut back when planted, it will develop into a multiple-trunked shrub about the size of a mature lilac bush. The largest of the trunks can be removed every few years to maintain this compact size. Where room permits, several main trunks can be encouraged, resulting in a pleasantly shaped little tree clump.

Beware The Bouncing Branch

Like many willows, scouler willow trees are rather brittle of
branch, blithely shedding heavy older limbs with every wind storm. Scoulers pruned as shrubs don’t have this habit, which becomes a distinct liability when the trees are underplanted with perennials. Cutting scoulers back in youth may seem harsh, but it makes them better behaved–thus more lastingly welcome–in mixed borders.

Even mature trees can be cut back quite hard, as I long ago discovered. During several especially windy years, great chunks of my old scouler came down each year. They would invariably land on top of their most fragile neighbors, flattening many a promising peony and rose in full bud. The last such event was so infuriating that it reminded me of a sage old saying about the best sort of defense. Out came the hand saw and down came the last remaining major limbs. (I think that an elderly tree deserves to go down through hand-to-hand combat, rather than fall to the casual impersonality of a chain saw. After all, it took that tree years to grow so large. It’s only fitting that it should cost us some time and effort to cut it down.)

Know When It’s Time To Whack

Had that tree retained its lovely natural shape, such powerful
offensive action might not have seemed a good idea. However, frequent loss of limb had left our scouler willow less than lovely, so this radical pruning did no harm. In fact, a number of lusty side shoots were already heading heavenward. In an amazingly short time, the tree was rejuvenated, with healthy, shapely young branches replacing the rotting old ones.

Only a few nurseries carry scouler willows, but anybody who so desires can have as many as they like for the price of a drive in the country. Scouler willow is common along Northwestern roadsides (indeed, it grows all the way from Alaska to New Mexico). Keep your eyes out for the upright, shrubby plants which often decorate the verges of country roads. (Young scoulers cut back by road-clearing crews respond with lush growth that results in dense shrubs rather than airy trees.)

Watch The Roadside For Stray Pussies

For the next month or so, the scoulers will be very obvious, for nearly every twig is tipped with large and lustrous pussies. Indeed, I can’t understand why scouler willows aren’t common in gardens, since their pussies are larger and more beautiful than the horticultural pussy willows widely sold in nurseries and garden centers. What’s more, scouler pussies appear a good deal earlier than their foreign counterparts. Since most pussy willows are grown entirely for the beauty of their silky catkins, it seems curious to neglect this splendid native in favor of frumpier plants with fewer charms.

When you find a likely-looking candidate, whip out your pruning snips and thoughtfully relieve the tree of some of its excess twiggery. When cutting pussy willows for the house, we naturally want to take the most heavily decorated twigs. For propagation purposes, however, it’s good to include a few bits of green, rather than hard, wood as well.

Soft But Not Lishy

Small branches which are prime for rooting are described in horticultural terms as feeling firm rather than “lishy”. Such twigs are not rigid: they have a bit of give to them, yet aren’t so soft as to be swished about like ribbons. Actually, willows root with such alacrity that practically any piece will take. Old wood is usually difficult or impossible to root, yet some years back we stuck a dozen willow limbs as big as my arm straight into the ground and every one of them set roots and grew into trees.

When you get your bounty home, just stick your scouler twigs into a jar of water. Keep them on a sunny windowsill, and in a few weeks, you will discover many long, white roots. Plants rooted in water often need a bit of transition before placement in dirt, but not willows. Pot them up if you aren’t sure where you want them, otherwise you can place the young plants wherever you want them in the garden. Keep them moist for the first summer, but once they are established, scouler willows thrive in good soils even without supplemental water. Next year, you may admire the year’s first catkins without leaving home.

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Enjoying Cold Season Crops

Winter-Fresh Food From The Garden

I love having something fresh to enjoy each day, even in the depths of winter. True, the sharp January frosts hit my winter lettuces hard, but there are still some terrific greens to be gathered. I especially enjoy oven roasted frost-nipped Brussels sprouts, spritzed with fresh lime juice and a bit of sea salt. Kale is especially delicious when sizzled in hot olive oil with chopped Kalamata olives and some garlic, then drizzled with fresh orange juice.

Here are a few more ways to enjoy winter greens, all of which contribute splendid health benefits as well as palate pleasing qualities to the winter table. Winter cabbage has a sweet, slightly peppery flavor that adds snap to salads, especially if you make a lively curried dressing and add fresh and dried fruit.

Curried Cabbage Salad

1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped
1 cup Greek style yogurt
1-2 teaspoons sweet/hot curry powder
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups green cabbage, shredded
1 cup red cabbage, shredded
1 cup bok choy, shredded
1/2 cup tiny baby carrots, ends trimmed
1 Braeburn or Gala apple, cored and chopped
2 tablespoons golden raisins
2 tablespoons dried tart cherries
2 tablespoons walnuts, toasted

Mince garlic and ginger together or squeeze both through a garlic press into the yogurt. Add curry powder and salt to taste. Let stand while you shred greens. Toss shredded greens with vegetables and fruit. Taste dressing and adjust seasoning to taste. Gently toss salad with dressing, garnish with toasted walnuts and serve immediately. Serves 4.

Contrasts of Hot and Cold

I also enjoy contrasts of hot and cold food, such as hot rice tossed with raw shredded greens. Finely sliced strips of cabbage or kale make a beautiful, tasty bed for grilled chicken with a sumptuous sauce of fresh sage and slow-cooked onions. Serve this with curried cabbage salad and short grain brown rice for a quick dinner. If you have any leftovers, the chicken and sauce are great in sandwiches, hot or cold.

Grilled Chicken With Sage and Caramelized Onions

4 chicken breasts, skinned and boned
2 tablespoons olive oil
12 sage leaves, half shredded
1 tablespoon butter
2 white or yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon flour
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Blend 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon shredded sage leaves in a bowl or plastic bag. Add chicken and marinate for at least half an hour (overnight in the refrigerator is great). In a heavy pan, heat remaining oil and butter over medium heat. Add remaining shredded sage and onions and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and the sugar. Stir to coat and cook over low heat until soft and golden (about 20-30 minutes), stirring occasionally. While onions cook, grill chicken over coals or in the oven, cooking for 6-8 minutes on each side and turning once. When chicken is done, put on a platter in a warm oven (200 degrees) and cover with foil. When onions are golden, stir in flour, then add hot water, 1/4 cup at a time, stirring well, to thicken the sauce (you may need a cup of hot water). Add remaining sage, stir and cook for 2-3 minutes over low heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve chicken and sauce hot, garnished with sage leaves. Serves four.

Fresh Tasting Fish Tacos

Years ago, one of my favorite Bainbridge Island eateries, Chili Cosmo’s, made an awesome fish taco that combined shredded cabbage with grilled fish and an aioli-like, salsa-infused sauce that doubles as dressing for crisp greens. At the time, it sounded weird, but the combination tastes so good that I still find myself eating this truly fabulous meal every week or so.

Fish tacos have been the hottest thing going in Baja California for many years. In California as well, some former burrito joints now serve nothing else. You’ll find my version of this delicious dish below, which features lemon-poached fish instead of the grilled fillets you’d find Down South. If you want to compare it with the real thing, it will cost you a ticket to sunnier climes, but this pleasing compromise tastes like summer even in the depths of winter.

Fish Tacos With Cabbage

1 organic lemon, juiced, rind grated
2 tablespoons fruity olive oil
2 teaspoons minced or pressed garlic (2-3 cloves)
1-1/2 pound skinlesss cod fillets
1 cup Greek style yogurt
1/2 cup salsa
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups green OR red cabbage, shredded
1 Walla-Walla sweet onion, thinly sliced
8-12 8 inch corn tortillas
1/2 cup fresh cilantro, stemmed

Blend 1 tablespoon lemon juice in a bowl or plastic bag with 1 tablespoon oil and 1 teaspoon garlic. Add fish and marinate for at least half an hour (if longer, keep in the refrigerator). Blend yogurt with lemon rind, remaining garlic, and salsa, set aside. Toss cabbage with onion and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon olive oil, set aside. Cut fish in inch-wide strips, place in a heavy frying pan, add remaining lemon juice and water to bring depth to 1/3 inch from bare bottom.  Sprinkle fish with salt and bring liquid to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover pan and simmer until fish is opaque (3-4 minutes, internal temperature of 136 degrees F.). Rub another frying pan with oil and warm tortillas over medium high heat for several seconds on each side. To serve, fill tortillas with cabbage, top with fish, drizzle with dressing, and garnish with cilantro. Serve at once. Serves 4.

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Editing The Garden

Knowing When To Let Go

The past decade has been full of challenging weather events, from massive snowfall, ice  and wind storms to heavy rain and flooding. Summers have been equally difficult, with cool, cloudy months giving way to sudden heat and drought.

All this is not news, of course, but the list is worth a moment’s review. What it all adds up to is remarkable and continuing stress for our plants. Even native trees and shrubs are affected by wild weather swings that ravage pampered garden beauties.

Resist Rescue Temptation

I get a lot of questions about how to resuscitate plants that have had more winter than they can handle. I know, it really is tempting to coddle frail, weather-worn plants. However, the result is rarely worth the extra work involved in garden rescue missions. First we modify the soil, perhaps root pruning and resetting a collapsing belle. We spread compost and top dress with aged manure. We add stakes to hold the failing stems upright, finally creating a web of ties like a cat’s cradle.

Perhaps we brew special blends of humic acids and kelp extract, adding a dash of mineral elixir and an aspirin tablet. Such a concoction may work wonders on tomatoes and roses (it does, in fact) but rarely suffices to restore a frost bitten tropical perennial. It may limp along for a while, looking awful all summer, but in the end, our treasure is clearly headed for the big compost heap in the sky.

Giving It All Up For Love

Does that mean we shouldn’t grow the borderline hardy plants we love? No, of course not. Love is always worth pursuing, and never wasted. However, after many years, I have come to feel that my time is better spent on cherishing hardy, independent plants that don’t need me very much. Plants that can’t take the highs, the lows, and the swings between are least painfully considered as annuals.

Some may be quite expensive annuals, but if you really love the look of a particular ginger or New Zealand flax, for example, you may consider their price as money well spent. For the cost of a fine dinner that lasts a few hours, you can enjoy a beloved plant for at least 6 months, and if we’re lucky, perhaps a few years. Pro-rated on a dollars-per-hour-of-pleasure basis, that costly plant is a bargain, not to mention the health benefit accrued in the act of planting.

An Annual Investment in Joy

Thus, we can face the annual task of removing the dead and dying with renewed strength and courage. While recycling expensive former plants into the compost heap, why not focus on past pleasure as well as pleasure to come. Yes, the plant is a goner, but wasn’t it lovely? And won’t it’s replacement bring you joy as well, should you choose to try, try again?

If you do replant, ask yourself whether a new location might give your fragile beloved a better chance to shine. For me, the issue is not longer whether I can coax a plant to survive, but whether or not I can successfully help it thrive. I no longer want to work so hard, and I get new and deeper pleasure from observing happy, healthy plants that joyfully make a home in my garden with very little input from me.

Tougher Loving

My new approach is still surprising to my dear Friday Tidies, the noble volunteers who have helped me create several acres of glorious gardens around our public library. We meet, as might seem clear, on Friday mornings all year round to keep these public gardens gorgeous. The Friday of the big snow this January was the first time in almost 15 years that we had to cancel, which says a lot for our weather karma.

My gallant crew is used to me going to great lengths to save often unpromising plants. For years, I used a wide, sometimes ridiculous range of tactics to keep plants alive that might truly be better off dead. Now, when asked what to do with this dwindling perennial or that faltering shrub, I am apt to say, “Oh, let’s just dig it out and try something else.” The Tidies eye each other nervously and rush away to do it before I have time to change my mind.

Comfort In Compost

I almost never do have second thoughts about such decisions these days. Some of my newfound peace with change and decay is probably due to having spent a year in mourning for the loss of my husband. A marriage that ends in death perforce brings the topic close to the heart. What I know now is that death is far from the worst thing that can happen to a person or a plant. I realize that my view of compost is perhaps a bit romantic (boggling as the thought may be), yet it really is comforting to think in terms of recycling, not utter ending.

Mary Oliver wrote a poem called Heron Rises From The Dark Summer Pond in which she thinks how unlikely it is that “death is a hole in the ground.” As I planted this week, I realized that for gardeners, a hole in the ground is not about ending but about hopeful beginning.

This year, I intend to move forward joyfully and fearlessly, looking back with love and compassion. Out with the old, gently and sweetly, making respectful room for something new. Onward.

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Winter Rains Bring Soggy Lawns

Time To Make Your Rain Garden?

Last week, snow and high winds kept most of us home, snug indoors while nature ran wild outside. Here on Bainbridge Island, we had over six inches of snow, layered with ice, making for treacherous roads.

However, we never lost power, making this the first major storm I can recall in over 30 years when we did not. What a lovely treat to be “stuck” at home for several days, yet be warm and able to do whatever we liked. I read and knit and cleaned closets and had a splendid time, but by the third day, I was itching to go out. However, the garden was far to wet to permit gardening. Drat!

A Soggy Aftermath

As the snow and ice melted, runoff poured in merry little streams down the driveway and through the garden. Heavy rains deepened the streams into gushing waterfalls that tumbled down the hill, spreading at last into a rather pretty lake. That’s where the rain garden will go, when the soil dries out enough to dig.

When winter rains continue in force, it’s easy to see if you could benefit from a rain garden. Planted with natives and allies that love wet winters and dry summers, rain gardens capture excess water that might flood basements or leave lawns soggy.

Runaway Runoff

Pavement, roofs, and most lawns create runoff that can make yards unusable all winter. The key to reducing runoff is my favorite soil amendment; compost. Compost-enriched rain gardens absorb water like sponges, then let it percolate slowly into the soil. Compost can also make your existing garden beds and borders more absorbent.

Like forest duff, compost can store many times its weight in water. Adding it to the garden improves the texture and biotic quality of our soil. Compost top dressing even prevents weed seeds from germinating. To accomplish all this and increase the permeability of beds and borders, add 2-3 inches of compost every spring and fall.

Why Lawns Get Soggy

Lawns are often almost as impermeable as a concrete sidewalk, which sheds up to 85% of rainfall or irrigation. To change that situation, rake half-an-inch of compost over the lawn every spring and fall. Over time, this increases soil permeability and reduces lawn’s need for summer watering dramatically. (It also eliminates thatch without all the bother of aerating.)

If you still get puddles after a few seasons of adding compost, your property will benefit from a rain garden. Where to put it? A sunny, fairly flat, unused lawn is ideal, as long as the chosen spot is not
1) on or near your septic field,
2) uphill from your home or well,
3) right under a large tree, or
4) above undergrounded utility lines.

Designing A Working Rain Garden

Place your rain garden at least 10 feet from the house or outbuildings to keep foundations dry. Though it may seem counterintuitive, avoid places where water puddles, since you already have a drainage problem there. The idea is to promote water absorption, not persistent puddling that might harbor mosquitoes.

What should it look like? Some rain gardens are long and skinny, like a mock stream bed, perhaps running along a fence or tumbling between garden beds. Most often, they are given naturalistic shapes, but if your garden is formal in design, your rain garden can be formally shaped as well.

Give It The Drainage Test

Check the drainage on your chosen spot by digging several test holes about a foot deep. Fill them with water; if it vanishes quickly, terrific. If it lingers all day, find another spot.

How big should a rain garden be? There are several good sources for determining how much runoff you need to capture. Check your local library for books on rain garden design, or visit online sites (see below for a good one). The idea is figure out the amount of runoff from your roof and driveway, allowing for the slope of the land and more.

Or Just Do It

If you don’t care for math or just want to give the idea a try, a rain garden of pretty much any size will improve a soggy yard. As a baseline, start with about 100 square feet of rain garden, see how the situation changes, and add more if you need it.

Make your rain garden at least two feet deep, with a flat bottom and sloping sides. With the removed soil, build a low berm behind your rain garden to keep high water in place. For overflow, slip unperforated drainage pipe through the berm into a catchbasin or “streambed” of crushed rock.

Fill the bed with 2-4 inches of clean crushed gravel (1-inch or bigger) or 6 inches of coarse woodchips (not bark), topped with 4-6 inches of compost. Top dress with 2-3 inches of shredded wood or leaves. Your rain garden should still be significantly lower than the surrounding lawn or borders.

Ready To Plant

Now you can plant with perennials, grasses, and shrubs. Well planted rain gardens can be as attractive as any ornamental bed. To make a handsome planting, combine water iris, Japanese anemones, bog sage, hostas, and daylilies with carexes, feather reed grasses (Calamagrostis), maiden grasses (Miscanthus, and sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium). For structure, tuck in some spirea, flowering quince, and twiggy dogwoods, with a chokecherry or vine maple for summer shade.

A mature rain garden needs minimal weeding and no watering. Annual mulching with compost, shredded leaves, or ground wood (not bark) will keep soil open and receptive. Check your rain garden after especially heavy rains to be sure it is working properly. If it is frequently overwhelmed, increase the size of your rain garden or make another bed.

For more information, visit Pierce County’s very useful website (www.pierce.wsu.edu), where a complete rain garden manual is available as a free download.

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