Growing The New Grafted Vegetables

Super Natural Tomatoes

After last year’s success with growing grafted tomatoes, I was eager to try even more grafted veggies this year. After a cold, wet winter, a cold wet spring, and a cold, wet early summer, I figured that grafted plants were my only hope of getting any kind of decent production.

For those of you who are new to the site and the topic, grafted tomatoes are similar to grafted fruit trees, roses, or grapes. Early in the plant’s life, you partner a delicious but less productive scion (the top part) with a vigorous root system that’s disease resistant and tolerant of temperature swings. Like green magic, the result is synergistic; earlier, bigger yields from healthy plants.

Will They Work In My Cold Garden?

I knew my dear friends at Loghouse Plants were working miracles with grafting tomatoes and I just had to give their amazing plants a try. I knew that these super plants were super productive in Oregon, where even the summer nights are hot, and I wondered what would happen here in my maritime garden in Northwestern Washington.

Many Happy Returns

The results were everything I had hoped for and more. I picked plump, juicy tomatoes all summer and found a new favorite, Chocolate Cherry. In  October, I brought several large potted tomato plants into my unheated sunporch, and the cherry tomatoes just kept coming until the Thanksgiving snowstorm arrived with ice in its wings.

This year, I have high hopes for Shasha’s Altai, an heirloom tomato from Russia that fruits very early and is exceptionally cold tolerant. With our night temperatures still in the 50’s, a plant that thrives in Siberia should feel right at home. The fruits look more like globular clusters than plump round balls, but they ripen a fresh, bright red and the flavor is lively. I do hope it likes lots of rain….

Dream Team Tomatoes

Again, I’m growing some double grafts, including my personal Dream Team combination of Sweet Million and Sungold, both top favorites. If I had to choose just one tomato plant, this combo would be the winner, hands down. Both of these now-classic tomatoes are addictive for eating out of hand and fabulous for adding to salads of all kinds, from greens to tuna.

I’m also trying my hand at grafted eggplants and peppers, two crops that rarely perform well for me in ungrafted forms, usually because of cold nights (which cause serious setbacks for heat loving tropicals). Given last year’s good tomato production, I am hoping that I’ll have equally good luck with these grafted goodies.

Already I’ve got tiny babies forming on my Ichiban, a slim, black-skinned Japanese eggplant that I like to serve thickly sliced, rolled in egg and cornmeal, and pan fried with a dash of chili oil. Yow!

How To Plant Grafted Veggies

Plant grafted vegetables of any kind a little high rather than deep, making sure that the graft union is clear of deep mulch or excess soil. Otherwise, it is likely that the scion (top growth) will create its own, weaker roots and you won’t get the benefit of the grafting. If you’ve been accustomed to burying tomatoes up to their necks to strengthen the main stem, please don’t do that with these grafted gals.

As the plant grows, keep an eye on the main stem and pinch off any roots from above or shoots from beneath the graft. My plants get a pinch or two every week, since those fat tomato stems are extremely eager to produce new rootlets. Despite thick, sturdy main stems, tomato top growth needs considerable support. This year I am using very fetching metal tomato towers in pink and green, which will hopefully keep these beauties upright.

Trim For Best Production

Grafted plants often produce abundant foliage as well as fruit, especially the indeterminate types. To keep them focussed on fruiting, trim excess foliage frequently and limit the number of new shoots (snip extras off at the main stem). However, don’t get carried away with the trimming, since those leaves are capturing atmospheric nitrogen for your plant. They also act as sunscreen, preventing the blistered shoulders that come from sunscald.

More Bees, Please

I always plant tomatoes with companionable herbs and flowers to attract as many pollinators as possible, from hover flies to our little native bees. Thyme, sweet alyssum, and calendulas are very popular with all sorts of bees, so I tuck a few starts into each pot. When it’s harvest time, I can grab a sprig or two of fresh herbs to sprinkle over my sliced tomatoes for the perfect finishing touch.

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Dealing With Dry Shade

Sustainable Shady Dry Gardens

Drought tolerant gardens are becoming increasingly popular for some excellent reasons. First of all, they reduce our dependence on water during the dry summers, when regional rainfall is minimal. Once established, with husky, wide-reaching root systems, these plants can fend for themselves, needing little or no supplemental water except in extreme circumstances.

Second, drought tolerant plants tend to prefer compost over fertilizers. This makes them easy to please with an annual mulching program and more independent and less needy when life gets complicated. Thus, dry gardens reduce the use (and overuse) of high-nitrogen feeds that tend to end up in our streams, ponds, rivers, and major water ways like Puget Sound.

Seldom Bugged By Bugs

Thirdly, many drought tolerant plants are not very palatable to pests. Plants that resist moisture loss often have hairy, leathery, or dense foliage that doesn’t make for easy snacking. Pests from deer to aphids and slugs tend to prefer a diet of tender greens that are more easily penetrated and less fibrous.

Lastly, a well chosen palette of drought tolerant plants can create a handsome and enduring garden that holds its looks and character with very little care. There is still plenty to do for those who love tinkering in the garden, but for those who are getting older (and/or busier), sustainably designed dry gardens can offer freedom from the tyranny of prima donna fusspot plants.

Some Basic Principles To Consider

Most of what has been written about dry gardens concern dry, sunny sites. Many sites offer ideas about of plants suitable for sunny sites, but less is commonly available for shady gardens. There is no reason why dry gardens won’t work in shady sites as long as a few simple principles are taken into consideration.

Our native woodlands offer an excellent model for dry shade gardens, since our paucity of summer rainfall means that natives need to get a grip or die. Some native flowers resolve the drought issue by going dormant in summer. Many shrubs and perennials have developed thick foliage and wide roots that help keep plants hydrated even in dry times.

In dry shade settings, I choose lots of native woodlanders, especially evergreens like huckleberries, sword ferns, and salal that provide structure through the seasons. Many Mediterranean, middle Eastern, and Asian bulbs also flourish in a dry shade garden, from crocus, hyacinths, and Greek windflowers (Anemone blanda) to many kinds of lilies and rare aroids (Jack-in-the-pulpits).

Front Loading The Care Package

Quite a few plants are fairly drought tolerant if given a good start. Amend soil well with plenty of aged compost, and soak planting areas well, not just each planting hole. Immerse each plant in a bucket until no more air bubbles appear, making sure the soil is completely saturated before planting. After planting, water in well and top mulch with moist compost or aged dairy manure (it’s seedless). For the first two years, be especially attentive to watering needs during hot spells and prolonged dry periods.

Rugged Rhodies

Many rhododendrons are surprisingly able to handle summer drought once their rot systems are well developed. With rhodies, the rule of thumb is that the larger the leaf, the less sun they can handle gracefully. Among the large leaved types, Rhododendron campbelli and the Loderi hybrids such as ‘King George’ are very drought tolerant once established, as may be seen in old, long-neglected gardens where they have lived undisturbed for decades. Our native Western rhody, Rh. macrophyllum, is not surprisingly another fine performer in dry gardens.

Among the more compact types, many of the yaks (Rh. yakushimanum hybrids) are good dry garden candidates, as are many of the 2-3 footers. Whatever the leaf size, all need an excellent start with at least two full seasons of supplemental water and an annual deep mulch of compost to thrive in dry garden settings.

Add Some Shady Companions

Under their feet, consider adding evergreen ferns, from our native sword and deer ferns to autumn ferns and many other members of the Dryopteris clan. Deciduous ferns that peak in summer and can take dry shade include our native lady fern as well as royal and ostrich ferns. White-veined Japanese painted ferns bring a gleam of light into dusky corners. Here again, a year or two or care earns many years of benign neglect with good results.

Foliage perennials can contribute far longer than those which offer showy but fleeting flowers. Once established, hostas are good dry garden performers, again needing plenty of compost mulch to keep them thrifty. Tough as nails, Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ offers striking white-veined leaves and fluffy blue flowers that look lovely in shady woodland settings. Rodgersia, Mukdenia, and Acanthus offer bold foliage that holds its own amongst shrubs and small trees.

Perennials For Dry Shade

Flowering perennials for dry shade include hellebores of many kinds, which tend to have attractive foliage in summer and carry their dangling bell flowers in winter and spring. Japanese anemones bloom in shade or sun with aplomb. I often plant the various wood spurges such as Euphorbia martinii, E. amygdaloides, and the evergreen E. robbiae. This last is a running groundcover that is best used where room is plentiful and the understory sturdy, since it is the quintessential thug, but it is an invaluable carpeter for a tough spot.

For textural contrasts, mix in some evergreen shade grasses such as Carex morrowii, a charmer with many color forms striped in yellow or white to bring a gleam of silver or sunny gold to a shady corner. A deciduous Chinese forest grass, Hakonechloa macra, does well in dappled shade and comes in six or seven variant forms, from solid green through various stripings to solid gold.

Great Ground Covers

Some of my favorite deciduous ground covers for shady areas include Northwestern natives like bunchberry (Cornus canadensis), wood strawberry (Fragaria vesca), wood sorrel (Oxalis oregana, which also has evergreen forms), and bleeding heart (Dicentra oregana). Evergreen choices include kinnikinnick and several creeping Oregon grapes (Mahonia repens and M. nervosa), both of which boast fragrant yellow flowers in late winter or early spring. I often use members of the bishop’s hat clan (Epimedium), which come in a wide range of sizes, textures, and flower colors.

This brief introduction will I hope entice you to explore the wide and exciting range of dry garden shade plants more fully. Good places to get more ideas are in shady old parks and cemeteries and neglected older homes with long established plantings. Good hunting!

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Deer Resistant Plants

Plants Deer Don’t Prefer

Each year, I am asked for advice about planting a deer proof garden. I can indeed suggest a range of plants that deer will never touch, that won’t need water, and will never outgrow their spot. In a word: Plastic.

When Plastic Surgery Is A Blessing

Look before you laugh; Plastic plants are far more attractive today than in the past. Indeed, plastic inserts may be invaluable in those pinch-hit situations, such as the upcoming garden wedding immediately after a hailstorm, the garden tour arriving right after a dog-and-cat fight in the border, and so on. For true success, insist that your guests remove their eyeglasses. Those who don’t wear glasses must don the removed glasses of those who do. The result will be dreamily indistinct and your plastic-enhanced garden will be as lovely as those vasoline-smeared-lens shots of insufficiently clad women. (That I know this is proof that I have brothers.)

Sadly, when it comes to real living plants, “deer proof” is not a realizable goal. The best we can hope for is to come up with a list of generally deer resistant plants. What that usually boils down to is

1) a roster of plants that are outright toxic (castor beans, foxglove);
2) plants that deer don’t like well enough to eat all of (ivy, lavender), and
3) plants that grow faster than the deer can eat them (bamboo, grasses).

Bane or Beauty?

Voracious and charming, greedy and beautiful, deer can be the bane or the grace of the garden. Although young deer will eat pretty much anything, mature deer are more discriminating. Sort of. Though there really is no such thing as a deer-proof plant, there definitely are deer resistant ones. Often these are plants with hairy, smelly, waxy, dense, or highly textured foliage.

Over the years, I’ve seen many lists from all over the county citing plants deer love and plants deer hate. Amazingly, some of the same plants appear on each list. Evidently deer in one region happily eat things that deer elsewhere don’t.

Bambi Sees A Different Reality?

Deer can also change their habits: For many years, deer ignored my azaleas, but one spring, they ate them eagerly. I presently have deer that browse the new growth on ivy, which I’ve never seen before. On one notable occasion, a deer ate the better part of a large and extremely toxic angel trumpet (Datura). These glorious plants are renowned for their psychoactive effects, which have been used by shamans for millennia. Though he practically ate the whole thing, there was no dead Bambi to be found afterwards.

The Latest List

I have quite a lot of experience with deer, having been blessed with many of them in each of my gardens. At present, my yard hosts a growing family in the front yard and a clutch of young bucks in the lower back yard. Sometimes my neighbor even calls and asks me to get my deer out of his garden. For what it is worth, I present my current list of plants my personal flock of deer rarely eat (all of):

Bulbs/tubers

Allium              Ornamental onions
Begonia            Begonia (tuberous)
Crocosmia       Crocosmia
Dahlia              Dahlia
Endymion       Spanish bluebells
Freesia             Freesia
Fritillaria         Crown imperials
Galanthus        Snowdrops
Gladiolus         Gladiola
Hyacinthus      Hyacinths
Narcissus         Daffodils
Scilla                 Squills
Polianthes        Tuberose

Shrubs & Subshrubs

Abelia               Abelia
Berberis           Barberry
Brugmansia     Angels trumpet
Buxus               Boxwood
Callicarpa        Beautyberry
Caryopteris     Bluebeard
Ceanothus       California lilac
Clerodendrum        Peanutbutter plant
Cistus                Rockrose
Cotoneaster      Cotoneaster
Daphne             Daphne
Datura               Angels trumpet
Erica                  Heather
Escallonia         Escallonia
Gaultheria        Salal
Hypericum       St. John’s wort
Ilex                    Holly
Juniperus        Juniper
Kerria               Kerria
Kirengeshoma     Shuttlecock flower
Kolkwitzia        Beauty bush
Lavandula        Lavender
Leycesteria       Pagoda shrub
Mahonia           Oregon grape
Nandina           Heavenly bamboo
Picea                 Spruce
Pieris                Lily-of-the-valley shrub
Pinus                Pine
Potentilla         Cinquefoil
Prunus              Laurel
Rhododendron        Rhododendron, Azalea
Rhus                 Sumac
Ribes                Flowering currant
Rosmarinus    Rosemary
Salvia               Sage
Santolina         Lavender cotton
Sarcoccoca      Sweetbox
Senecio            Senecio Sunshine
Skimmia          Skimmia
Spirea              Spirea
Syringa            Lilac
Viburnum       Viburnum

Perennials/grasses

Acanthus         Bear breeches
Aconitum        Monkshood
Achillea           Yarrow
Agastache       Hummingbird plant
Alyssum          Basket-of-gold
Angelica pachycarpa    New Zealand angelica
Artemisia        Artemisia
Aster                Aster
Aubretia          Rockcress
Bergenia          Leatherleaf
Campanula     Bellflower
Chrysanthemum    Chrysanthemum
Crambe            Sea kale
Digitalis           Foxglove
Echinacea        Cone flower
Erigeron           Fleabane
Eryngium         Sea holly
Euphorbia        Spurge
Ferula               Fennel
Fern                  Ferns (most)
Gaillardia        Blanket flower
Geranium        Geranium
Grasses            Grasses (most)
Helleborus      Hellebore
Iris                    Iris
Kniphofia        Poker plant
Lavatera          Mallow
Lupinus           Lupines
Macleaya         Plume poppy
Meconopsis     Welsh poppy
Melianthus      South African honeybush
Monarda          Bee balm
Nepeta              Catmint
Oenothera        Evening primrose
Papaver            Poppies
Penstemon       Beardtongue
Perovskia          Russian sage
Phlomis             Jerusalem sage
Phormium        New Zealand flax
Pulmonaria      Lungwort
Rheum              Rhubarb
Rudbeckia        Black-eyed Susan
Santolina          Lavender cotton
Scabiosa           Pincushion flower
Stachys             Lambs ear
Thymus            Thyme
Verbascum       Mullein
Verbena            Verbena
Viola                  Violets, violas, pansies

Annuals

Alyssum          Sweet alyssum
Calendula       Pot marigold
Clarkia            Farewell to spring
Cleome            Spider flower
Eschscholzia  California poppy
Heliotropus    Heliotrope
Lobelia             Lobelia
Myosotis          Forget-me-nots
Nasturtium     Nasturtium
Nicotiana        Flowering tobacco
Papaver           Poppies
Pelargonium  Geranium
Petunia            Petunia
Ricinus            Castor bean
Tagetes            Marigold
Verbena          Verbena
Viola                Violas, pansies
Zinnia              Zinnia

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Don’t Drink From That Hose!

Seeking Safer Garden Hoses

A reader recently asked me to write about drinking quality or safe hoses. This is an often overlooked issue, because few people realize that most ordinary garden hoses are NOT safe to drink from. I learned this a few years ago when I trialed half a dozen hoses for various qualities. I am always looking for a hose that won’t kink easily, since I tend to drag them around corners, behind big rocks, and under bushes. At the time, I ended up preferring both Flexogen and Colorite Water Works hoses. Over time, however, my Flexogen hoses have gotten softer and more prone to kink.

After some five years of use (and mild abuse), the Colorite Water Works hoses are still in good shape and are  still less readily kinkable. They remain more supple than most hoses in cold weather as well. In one informal test, I was able to demonstrate that this hose keeps on flowing even with a UPS truck parked on top of it.

What’s In That Hose Anyway?

Certain Water Works hoses (sold as safe to drink from) are among a mere handful that are indeed safe to drink from and mine have never developed that nasty, mildew flavor most hoses get with age. They are lined with medical grade plastic that prevents lead and other harmful substances in the hose itself from reaching the water.

I honestly never though twice about drinking from a hose until my kids were small. I discovered then that most hoses carry a disclaimer on the label. They read: “This hose is NOT intended for drinking water use. WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer. WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm.”

Yikes!

Next time you shop for a hose, check the small print first. Often, the disclaimer is printed on the underside of the labels, where you can’t see it until after you buy. If this label is present, or if there is no disclaimer and no statement about drinking safety, it means that it is NOT a good idea to drink–or let your kids drink–from that particular hose.

It’s probably not a great idea to fill their kiddy splash pool with it, either. And you might not even want to use it on the vegetable patch or the bird bath.  To find a new hose that doesn’t leach lead into the water, look for hoses that are labeled “Safe for drinking” or “Drinking quality safe”. Such hoses are rated safe because they don’t contain or release enough lead to be considered hazardous.

Mom Was Right

Remember when your mom told you not to drink from the hose? She was right. Until I began to research safe hoses, I had no idea that lead is a common stabilizer in the kind of plastic (polyvinyl chloride) used to make many types of hose, including garden hoses. The lead can often leach from these hoses, so a quick slurp on a hot day can deliver an unsafe amount of lead to an unsuspecting child, gardener, or dog. Hmmm.

What’s so bad about lead? Even small amounts can lead to brain damage, significant anemia, and other health problems, especially in children. Since lead damage is irreversible, a safe hose starts to seem like a bargain. In May of 2003, Consumer Reports Magazine tested 16 leading hose brands for lead. Even some of those labeled as safe contained tiny amounts of lead in water left standing in the hose for a day or so, but all the drinking quality hoses tested lead-free after running fresh water through them for a full minute.

Many other hoses not specifically labeled safe ended up leaching significant amounts of lead into the water passing through them. Bottom line? Don’t let your kids drink from any hose you don’t KNOW to be safe, and flush safe hoses well with clean running water first.

Best Bets

Which hoses are currently the safest? Consumer Report listed four: Gardener’s Supply Company hose #33-469, Teknor Apex Boat and Camper Self-Straightening, Swan Marine/Camper, and Better Homes And Gardens Kink-free. A quick check on the internet found all of these widely available, as well as quite a few newer models from many companies, including Flexogen and Colorite. However, it is important to understand that not all hoses from any company is safe to drink from: Only hoses specifically labeled as drinking quality or drinking safe are safe to drink from.

If you can’t find such hoses locally, do a Google search using “hose safe drinking” or similar key words. You’ll find about a million links to sites selling safe hoses, as often for campers and boaters as for gardeners. Some sites even offer lists of hoses along with vendors offering the best prices (add “best prices” to your word search). Prices ranges from $15 for a 15-foot lightweight safe hose to about $50 for a 50-foot, 2-ply, reinforced heavy duty safe hose.

Tip: Don’t Drive Over The Hose

Drinking water quality hoses are guaranteed to remain safe for a lifetime. I’m pretty sure that the manufacturer would not recommend allowing the UPS truck to park on one, but with more careful use, these admittedly expensive hoses will last a long, long time.

Here’s a link to several choices:

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=drinking+water+safe+hose&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=5156715941&ref=pd_sl_3bmygulqbv_b

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