Planting For Climate Change


Long blooming heat lovers thrive with few inputs

Looking South For New Ideas

I’ve been asked a lot lately about which plants might work best as our climate changes. Clearly, climate change is having enormous impacts on our forests as well as our gardens; firs, hemlocks and cedars are dying throughout the Northwest, as are bigleaf maples, salal, and sword ferns. As our iconic flora struggles, we gardeners are also struggling to understand how best to work with the changing landscape. So far, our foresters and scientists are leaning to drought as the biggest stressor for our noble natives. Stressed plants are always more susceptible to pests and diseases and our beloved woody plants are being attacked by a determined little army of enemies.

Accustomed to cool, damp conditions for much of the year, maritime Northwestern natives suffer when snowmelt and seasonal rains are scanty. Even in hotter, drier regions, increased heat and drought put natives and exotics at risk, especially as water prices rise and watering restrictions are put in place. Though my corner of the world didn’t heat up this summer, heat surely happened elsewhere. Soaring temperatures and altered rain distribution, sudden snow and hellacious hail are hard on gardens. What’s a gardener to do?

Seeking Southlanders

Answering that will take some thought and experimentation. As the worldwide weather shifts continue, many folks in the horticulture business are rethinking their plant palettes. Everyone, from growers to nursery retailers to garden designers, is looking for more adaptable plants. There’s a growing movement to find tougher replacements for old standards that no longer thrive where they were once were tried and true. Fortunately, skillful folks everywhere are experimenting with plants that historically do best a zone or two south. For instance, growers from Washington, Oregon and California are working to develop a broader palette of garden-worthy Oregon and California natives.

Like what? Like the lovely manzanitas (Arctostaphylos), a family of evergreen shrubs and small trees. Though manzanitas have rarely been successful garden plants in coastal Washington gardens, they’re now are enjoying new popularity up and down the coast. Once a hobby relegated to native plant hunters and native plant enthusiasts, these days, nursery buyers and garden designers alike are seeking out handsome, reliable evergreens that tolerate heat, drought, and winter cold. Like the lovely native madrones, many manzanitas have peeling, ruddy bark and leaves of shimmering blue-grey or deep or silvery green. The clustered, bell shaped flowers (usually pink or white) are highly attractive to native bees, and the subsequent fruit feeds critters galore, from birds to bears.

More Great Choices

Many perennials will thrive in difficult conditions, once well established. Most plants that like it hot are actually fairly thirsty until well established, including many native prairie perennials such as rudbeckias and echinaceas. Though summer rain is rare on most American prairies, prairie plants develop extremely deep root systems that help them survive high heat and dry soils. Sold as drought tolerant (which they are, eventually), they can die for lack of water for the first several years. Like Pacific Northwest natives, most dryland plants do much of their root building in winter. To encourage root production, offer slow, steady organic fertilizers such as compost mulches. To keep those roots on track, avoid using commercial fertilizers from late summer until mid spring.

Among my favorite heat lovers are the Agastaches, called anise hyssop (though related to neither). These long blooming perennials are excellent performers in hotter, drier climes, where they attract all sorts of bees, hummingbirds and other pollinators from midsummer well into autumn. Thriving in open, sandy soils, anise hyssops do far better in large containers than in heavy clay soils, especially if drainage is less than optimal. Among the sturdiest classic varieties are Blue Fortune, with spires of dreaming blue, and Purple Haze, which produces cloudy spikes in thunderhead shades. Many recent hybrids involve high desert species with warm apricot and deep orange tints, notably the Arizona series, in shades of terra cotta, peach, and gold, and the tawnier Summer series, including coppery Summer Sunset and gentle peach Summer Glow.

Great Performers With Stamina

Modern yarrow (Achillea) hybrids are both mannerly and long blooming and take heat and drought in stride. Architectural in form, these deserving newcomers include lemon-ice Moonshine, with grey-green foliage, an especially effective blender for blues and purples. Where pastels are preferred, Appleblossom blooms in gentle shades of pink, from baby ribbon to delicate rose. Spunkier Paprika runs from smoky to sparky shades of red, while Ortel’s Rose creates a complex run from cool lavender to vivid magenta-rose.

The spurge family (Euphorbia) is deer proof, hardy, and handsome, and includes many excellent garden plants as well as a few rogues. I’m a sucker for wood spurges like Euphorbia amygdaloides Ruby Glow, a smoldering beauty with dusky purple foliage set aflame by ember red new growth. It grows happily in shade or sun and seeds itself about in a mild sort of way, never a pest since the plants are fairly short lived. Sculptural E. characias is a noble creature with many fabulous variations, such as Black Pearl, with tall stalks of green blossoms with snapping black eyes. Glacier Blue offer frosty foliage in silver and blue, while Silver Swan is even cooler in soft jade trimmed in ice. E. x martinii Ascot Rainbow makes a delectable, almost shrublike two-foot mound with foliage like frozen fireworks in delicate rainbow shades. Onward!

 

Posted in Care & Feeding, Climate Change, Easy Care Perennials, Native Plants, Pollination Gardens, Sustainable Gardening, Sustainable Living | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Celebrate The Equinox With Tree Planting

Edging Into Autumn

I’ve recently moved into a charming little neighborhood in the heart of this island’s main town. It consists of fifty mobile homes, most unassuming, some aging, some brand new and spiffy, all interwoven with towering trees. Most are firs, with a few cedars and maples, some mountain ash, and flowering fruit trees. Sadly, some of the largest evergreens are damaged or failing, thanks to weather events and past and ongoing construction. Over the years, as large branches dropped on roofs and questing roots buckled driveways and knocked house underpinnings askew, some trees were topped or removed while others were limbed up high or cut into tall stumps for wildlife habitat.

Sadly again, a number of the remaining trees will be removed over the next few years on the advice of certified arborists who do an annual tree health review for the mobile home park. In order to avoid creating future problems, I’ve been working on a list of appropriately sized replacement trees and large shrubs that can offer screening, shade, flowers and fruit without outgrowing their positions. I’m considering not only ultimate size but brittleness of limbs, messiness of dropping fruit and foliage (often falling in neighboring yards), benefits to wildlife, toxicity of seeds for kids and pets, and so forth. I’m also thinking about food security, so dwarf and compact fruit trees are high on the list. It’s quite pleasant to ponder over tree catalogs, choosing beauties that will be lastingly delightful to have in the neighborhood.

Taking Down Trees When The World Is Burning

But. While making these lists, I’m also grieving that still more of these mature trees must come down. I know that, however pretty, the appropriately sized new trees will take years to mature, and won’t ever replace the environmental benefits that even damaged big trees offer. Maybe it’s not too surprising that I haven’t been sleeping well lately and it’s not only because of raccoons dancing on the roof at 3:00 am. When I do sleep, my dreams are full of dying trees, blazing in the Amazon and Alaska, drowning in the Bahamas and Texas, drying out to death locally; millions of trees suffering all around the world. Water swirls through my dreams, polluted and full of dying fish, trash, and human waste as clean water regulations are ignored or withdrawn. The dreamy air is dim with smoke and smog as clean air regulations are withdrawn. Frogs, insects and birds vanish, along with polar bears, whales, giraffes, rhinos, turtles, tigers, gorillas, elephants, and hundreds of smaller creatures. When I wake up, it’s all horribly true. How can we not despair?

I have to remind myself forcibly that despair is exactly what the current regime and others like it around the world intend; despair is notoriously debilitating, as are depression and anxiety. People without hope are easily overwhelmed and tend to hunker down rather than stand and fight. As people of color everywhere have known forever, it’s hard to keep on fighting through many weary years. So what helps? Well, for me, trees do. Plants do. When I weed my tiny yard, I notice hundred of seedlings, sown with a lavish hand as nature works to replenish what humans destroy. The world-wide strikes for climate change fill me with hope, even though the kids are clear that they want our help, not our hope. I still offer my hope, because I’m not hoping that the kids will magically “figure it all out” and repair our battered, broken world. My hope is that their clarity, energy, courage and strength continues to revitalize those of us who have felt derailed or despairing.

We Are The Hope Of The World

As gardeners, we can actually do a lot to help, starting in our own gardens and properties. We can (ok sometimes) lead by example, helping neighbors make wiser choices about plants and pesticides and showing them how to better care for the plants they are stewarding. Personally, I’m not above buying and planting appropriate trees and shrubs for elderly and infirm neighbors, or those who like gardening but can’t afford to buy plants. Yes, it’s kind, but it also benefits me directly as I get to enjoy and safeguard the well-being of plants I love. I’m not above checking in with local schools, public and private, and helping organize and manage pollinator gardening programs and tree plantings. Sure, it’s nice, but it also lets me influence another generation of kiddos to discover the remarkable richness and wonders of plants and pollinators. Meddling for good, right?

I often hear gardeners (like me) complain that their properties are too small to hold all the amazing plants they want to grow. Great! That gives us the perfect excuse to look around and find nearby parking strips and roundabouts to colonize with beautiful plants, thoughtfully choosing those that won’t get out of hand and invite removal by city crews. We can always approach libraries and underfunded parks, where volunteer labor and free plants may be warmly and gratefully embraced. It’s worth checking out the grounds of local faith communities too, especially smaller denominational churches (I’ve had good luck with open and affirming churches like the UCC), which often combine an aging congregation and dwindling budgets. Would they like some free garden assistance? Quite often, that’s a yes.

Planting Time Is Here

There are many opportunities for sharing our love of plants and the natural world through public gardening. Will it always go well? Probably not. Almost certainly not; there are bumps in every road I’ve ever taken, especially when our own human fallibility smacks into the foibles of others. But. If we are looking for hope in the face of all that’s dreadful, there’s no better place to start than in making gardens that nurture people, pollinators, and wildlife; in building community through public gardening; in offering our knowledge and practical help wherever there’s a need.

And there’s no better time than this. Autumn seemed to arrive a little early this year, bringing with it softer rains that saturate soils deeply. Already, I can dig a tree-sized hole without uncovering a layer of dusty dry dirt. To get ready for fall planting, I’m amending soils with mature compost and alfalfa pellets (not the medicated animal feed kind), and mulching weedy patches generously with coarse arborist’s chips. Next stop, the nurseries! Best of all, anything we plant now will get at least six months of cool, rainy weather, or so say the NOAA climatologists, who are calling a 75% chance of our long-time “normal” Northwestern winter weather pattern. If cold weather does come, it may come early, so have woven row cover on hand to swaddle the newly planted for the duration of any freezes. Remove any such protections during mild spells to prevent molds and mildews. So c’mon. Let’s plant trees, and let hope renew our energy and zest for action. Onward!

Posted in Climate Change, Gardening With Children, Health & Wellbeing | 3 Comments

Pick A Peck Of Peppers

Raw Or Roasted, Dried Or Deadly

My foodie brother used to live in Texas, where he and his wife grew and dried an enticing range of hot peppers to use in all manner of tempting food. If that’s your jam too, you might want to check out his cookery blog (see below) for some ideas. (He cooks meat, which I don’t, so carnivores will especially like his recipes, though he does vegetarian as well.) Over the years, Eben sent me care packages jammed with dried jalapenos, both plain and home smoked, which turns them into chipotle peppers. He even got me growing serrano chiles, which are great all-purpose peppers for full bodied flavor and fairly mild heat. This year, I grew some gorgeous Giant Ristra red peppers, which are big, glossy, and wow! A little too hot for me, though not for those who enjoy the incendiary types.

Over all, my favorites have been the delicious Alma paprika peppers, which are wonderfully flavorful at every stage: you can make sweet, mild, hot or sizzling paprika from the same plant by picking the peppers when they’re white, yellow, orange or red. Paprikas are tasty fresh and terrific when dried, but they’re most memorable when smoked. Indeed, smoking awakens the umami flavor in any vegetable or fruit, making it a useful technique for vegetarians and vegans as well as omnivores. I always give some Almas to a friend who smokes fish and he’ll smoke my paprikas over cherrywood, apple or alder in exchange for some of the final produce. Deal!

How To Dry Peppers

When the peppers come in all at once, I roast them and freeze them in strips to enliven winter meals. I also dry some, since it’s great to have dried chiles on hand. They definitely have intense flavors, and I find them most useful as flakes or ground to a coarse powder. For this, I use a (retired) coffee grinder which does a splendid job of flaking or pulverizing peppers. You can then freeze them, keeping a few week’s worth in tightly sealed glass jars out of direct sunlight (a dim cupboard is best).

To protect yourself, always use gloves when handling fresh chiles. Also, avoid touching yourself ANYWHERE, and keep some antihistamine (such as Benedryl) on hand in case of accidents. If hot peppers give your hands a “burn”, plunge them in cold water and take an antihistamine immediately; the burning sensation is a histamine response, so the usual burn treatments won’t help. Here’s another tip from direct experience; always work in a well ventilated space. When prepping peppers and when using a vegetable dehydrator, run a vent fan to avoid getting those volatile pepper oils in your eyes, nose, or throat and save yourself from a world of hurt.

Stem Research

When prepping peppers, some folks insist on removing the stems, while others say it does not matter. My brother leaves his pepper stems on and his results are terrific, so now I do too. Some folks also slice chiles into rings or strips, while others leave them whole. Whole dried peppers do seem to retain more power and punch than cut ones, and less handling is needed, so that’s how I roll. On warm, dry days, you can air dry fresh chiles, but in wet, cool weather, I dry them on rimmed baking sheets in single layers on parchment paper, in a low, slow oven. However, food dehydrators do the best job, with very consistent results, especially the kinds with a fan that circulates air constantly (try it first to see how loud the fan is while running).
Place your chiles on the dehydrator racks, alternating stem and pointy ends and leaving plenty of room between them. Set the dehydrator at a low temperature (around 140 degrees F is good). Turn them over (use tongs) after 4 hours to make sure they dry evenly. Most will be done within 8-10 hours, though larger ones may need 12 hours. Once dry, store your dried peppers in tightly sealed glass containers to keep them that way. Properly stored dried chiles and other peppers can last up to several years.

Roasted Peppers

8 sweet &/or hot peppers, halved lengthwise and seeded
1 teaspoon avocado oil

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Rub peppers with oil and place skin side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until well blackened (20-30 minutes), remove from heat, cover with a towel for 15 minutes, then peel and coarsely chop. Makes about 3 cups. Freeze in small containers for up to six months.

Tomato And Roasted Pepper Soup

1 tablespoon fruity olive oil
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 onion, chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
6 cups chopped fresh tomatoes (with juice)
1 cup chopped roasted peppers (mix of hot/sweet is nice)
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon honey

In a soup pot, cook oil, garlic, onion and salt over medium high heat for 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, roasted peppers, black pepper and honey, along with water to barely cover. Bring to a simmer, cover pan and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Puree with an immersion blender and serve hot. Serves 4.

For meatier recipes including killer chili, check out my brother’s cookery blog at:
http://urbanmonique.com

 

 

Posted in preserving food, Recipes, Sustainable Gardening, Sustainable Living, Tomatoes, Vegan Recipes | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Nurturing Monarchs

Showy Milkweed loves dry, sunny places

Resurgence Requires Milkweed

Like bees of all kinds, Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus plexippus) are in trouble. As with bees, we gardeners can do a great deal to help, garden by garden. Pollinator gardens filled with local natives and other pollen- and nectar-rich plants are definitely beneficial for all sorts of bees and butterflies. Monarchs will happily visit many of these plants but they have a special relationship with milkweeds, using them as home base for laying their eggs. Milkweeds are also fodder plants for the emerging caterpillars; in fact, milkweeds are the only plants the caterpillars can eat. Thus, if there aren’t enough milkweed plants around when Monarch eggs hatch out, the baby caterpillars die.

Monarch populations have plummeted in recent decades, largely due to GMO corn and other herbicide-resistant crops; when farmers spray fields, milkweeds are killed and Monarchs starve. No breeding habitat, no successful breeding. Other causes also play in, from urban and suburban sprawl and habitat destruction to climate change. No surprise then that Monarch populations are at crisis point in many regions. However, some good news has arrived from Brookings, Oregon, where a few remarkable female Monarchs went on an egg-laying spree this year.

Waystations For Migrations

Both eastern and western Monarch populations have declined; researchers found a loss of over 80% in the east, and over 99% in coastal California. Back in the 80s, an estimated 4.5 million Monarchs migrated from our Western states to Mexico. This January, only 28,429 made the journey through California. If we want to help, the Xerces Society offers excellent of information and several projects to connect with, including protecting and managing vital Monarch habitats through the entire migration pathways. At the simplest level, we can all make Monarchs welcome by encouraging the planting of milkweeds in as many places as possible, both private and public.

If Monarchs are no longer showing up, what’s the point? Planting projects to reestablish native milkweeds can have remarkable results. This summer, several members of the Deschutes Land Trust experienced an astonishing butterfly bonanza in Brookings, Oregon. A number of Land Trust members have learned how to nurture and support Monarchs by creating Waystations for migrating butterflies. These can be as small as a series of modest patches of milkweed and nectar-rich, long blooming flowers, or extensive pollinator gardens, well stocked with milkweeds and a wider variety of nectar and pollen producing plants. (To learn about the training and certification for Waystation making and maintaining, check out this link: https://www.monarchwatch.org/waystations/ .)

A Miracle Of Fecundity

Here’s a little miracle for us: This July, a land trust member observed a female Monarch laying eggs in her pollinator garden, which includes mature milkweed plants. The gardener counted 50 eggs in that initial clutch. She gently tagged the female, who came back to lay another 50 eggs the following day. Though 300-400 eggs are typical for Monarchs, this busy gal kept on coming and eventually deposited a total of 588 eggs. To minimize the usual losses in the wild, the gardener and a friend (also a land trust member) raised the eggs to adults, then tagged and released them.

In early August, the other Land Trust member was tending his Monarch Waystation in Brookings and noted a tagged female monarch laying a batch of eggs. Her tag showed that she was one of the Monarchs he had helped raise and release in July. Throughout the week, a number of other tagged female Monarchs also visited the Waystation, along with some free-range untagged ladies. The gardener has now collected hundreds of eggs and responsibly raised the resulting caterpillars to adulthood. These butterflies will start the journey south by overwintering in California. However, this delightful glut of eggs meant that there would soon be insufficient milkweed to support them all. The call went out and many gardeners rallied with help. In such situations, large containers of cut stems of milkweed plants in water can tide things over, but clearly more Waystations are needed.

Incoming And Ongoing

Another support groups, the Brookings Oregon Monarch Advocates (BOMA) helped with egg raising and the care and feeding of the caterpillars as the precious eggs kept coming. This current generation of caterpillars will become the butterflies that migrate south to overwinter in California. Several other sites in Oregon reported extraordinary egg production as well, and BOMA has enlisted a coalition of support groups, including the Deschutes Land Trust, Southern Oregon Monarch Advocates, and Monarch Advocates of Central Oregon. Now these groups are working together to create more Waystations as well as training programs so more folks can learn to safely raise and release healthy Monarchs.

No one knows why this sudden resurgence is happening in Oregon, or whether it may also happen in other parts of the Pacific Northwest. Since fortune favors the prepared, it certainly seems worthwhile to start creating Waystations wherever we are, as well as learning responsible raising, tagging and release techniques. To get started, find a sunny, open space. Ideally, it’s at least 100 square feet (10 x 10’),; if that’s not possible, consider working with your neighbors, since a series of small pollinator patches can be as effective as a large one. To extend the bloom season, include as many native milkweed species as you can, and aim for about ten plants of each. Most milkweeds will spread a bit, mingling happily with other nectar and pollen producers to make a highly attractive pollinator patch.

Native Milkweeds

So what should we be planting? Native annuals and perennials can be mixed with hardy herbs and ornamentals that are good nectar and pollen sources. As for milkweeds, our four native species include Common Milkweed, Asclepias syriaca, with long, tapering foliage and umbels of pink-to-purple blossoms in early to mid summer. The flowers are small but intricate and offer a sweet, earthy fragrance that reminds me of vanilla beans. This milkweed colonizes readily in disturbed sites, often found along roadsides, ditches and old fields as well as pastures and croplands. Each plant may produce a number of large clones, especially thriving in full sun and lean soils. Like all Western milkweeds, it blooms better in lean, dry soils than rich ones, and does not need or appreciate fertilizer. Its plump, pickle-like seed pods open in mid to late fall, releasing brown seeds hanging from puffy, fluffy clouds of “silk” that blow away on the wind like dandelion seeds.

In some areas, Common Milkweed forms natural hybrids with another Western native, Showy Milkweed (A. speciosa). Showy Milkweed looks similar, but its pinky-purple-to reddish flowers have longer, more tapered petals that are slightly hairy and even more fragrant. Fertilizers can stunt these plants and often retard or inhibit blooming. Benign neglect is best for these deep-rooted plants, which do not transplant well once established but will often spread themselves around moderately, needing only full sun to thrive. Yet another species, Swamp Milkweed (A. incarnata) is a southern native that can stretch head high, producing flatter umbles of small, mauve to pale purple flowers off and on all summer. This one is better suited to richer soils and appreciates more moisture that the Western species, but attracts a wide range of butterflies and bees over its long bloom season. Perhaps the prettiest of all, Butterfly Weed (A. tuberosa) is a compact Southeastern native with vivid yellow-to-orange flowers from early summer to early autumn.

Here’s more info:
https://xerces.org/monarchs/

 

Posted in Butterfly Gardens, Pollination Gardens, Pollinators | Tagged , , | 2 Comments