A Bevy Of Beans

Posted on September 2, 2019 by Ann Lovejoy
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Fat Filet Beans

Feasting And Freezing Green Beans

This has been a grand year for beans, from tender French filet beans to flat, strappy Romanos. When the filet beans are 3-4 inches long, we pick them daily and freeze whatever we can’t eat fresh. If we miss too many days, they’ll ripen into pale green flageolet or shell beans. Left even longer on the vine, they’ll dry completely to become haricots, classics of cold season cookery. Romano beans also need to be harvested frequently, but they’re always welcome additions to stir fries and casseroles. They’re also fantastic roasted on the grill along with plump peppers and ears of corn. Despite the many flavorful green bean varieties to choose from, with my very limited space, I just grow a succession of old favorites, mainly filet, Romano, and Kentucky Wonder Wax beans.

The savory, rich flavor of fresh beans is awakened by many treatments, from a simple toss with butter and lemon to complex casseroles and curries, salads and sides. Green beans also freeze well, so when they ripen in profusion, we pack the fridge. Preparing beans for freezing is simplified if you use a metal colander/basket to plunge them into boiling water for 2-4 minutes, then immediately transfer them into a big bowl of ice water for 1 minute. Use a large salad spinner to dry them off, pat them even drier, then arrange them in a single layer on a rimmed pan and freeze until firm (15-20 minutes). Packed in tightly sealed containers and frozen immediately, they’ll remain delicious for 3-6 months. BUT!

To Blanch Or Not To Blanch?

Standard wisdom insists that vegetables must be steamed or boiled for a few minutes, then quickly cooled before freezing. This step inhibits enzyme activity that impairs the quality of frozen food but it definitely affects the texture. If fresh green beans are harvested a day or more before freezing, it’s best to blanch first. However, when freshly picked green beans are processed right away, they retain excellent flavor and texture even without the usual blanching.

To keep track of your harvest area, use colored yarn or tape to mark off the section you plan to pick that day. For best results, the beans must be thoroughly dry, since ice crystals impair food texture. Organically grown beans can be carefully hosed off in the garden while still on the vine, then quickly sun dried before picking. You can also rinse, spin dry, and pat drier as above. Just tip and tail your beans, cut them to your preferred size, pack into freezer containers and date them with a piece of masking tape and a marker.

Straws Suck

Blanched or not, frozen produce retains quality best when vacuum sealed. If you don’t have a vacuum sealing system, you can make your own with freezer bags and a drinking straw. Fill and close bags, then reopen slightly and insert a straw. Suck out as much air as possible and reseal tightly. I’ve pledged not to buy single use plastics anymore so as my old supply gets used up, I’m shifting back to freezer paper and freezer containers. Old tech, still works!

Wax Beans And Bitter Greens

1 tablespoon avocado or olive oil
2 shallots, sliced
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/4 teaspoon minced rosemary
1 pound yellow wax beans, ends trimmed
2 cups broccoli rabe
2 cups arugula
1 teaspoon chopped capers

In a wide, shallow pan, combine oil, shallots, salt, and rosemary over medium high heat and cook to the fragrance point (1-2 minutes). Add beans and broccoli rabe, stirring to coat. Cover pan and cook until barely tender (2-3 minutes). Stir in arugula and capers cook until wilted (2-3 minutes). Serve warm, drizzled with pan juices. Serves 4.

Fresh Filet Bean Salad

1 pound filet beans, ends trimmed
2 tablespoons avocado or olive oil
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 cup halved cherry tomatoes (I used Midnight Snack)
few grinds black pepper
1/4 cup stemmed flat leaf parsley
1 lemon, cut in 6 wedges

Steam beans for 3 minutes, drain. In a serving bowl, combine oil, green onions, salt, tomatoes, pepper. parsley, and the juice of 1 or 2 lemon wedges and whisk to emulsify. Toss beans in dressing and serve, garnished with remaining lemon wedges. Serves 4.

Romano Beans With Hazelnuts

1 tablespoon avocado or olive oil
1 clove garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped hazelnuts
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/8 teaspoon smoked hot paprika (or any)
1 pound Romano beans, ends trimmed, chopped
1 teaspoon stemmed thyme

In a wide, shallow pan, combine oil, garlic, almonds, salt, and paprika over medium high heat and cook to the fragrance point (1-2 minutes). Add beans and thyme, stirring to coat. Cover pan and cook until barely tender (2-3 minutes) and serve with pan sauce. Serves 4.

Spunky Sizzled Beans

2 tablespoons avocado or olive oil
1 pound Romano beans, ends trimmed
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
4-5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon finely chopped Ristra or any hot pepper
1-2 teaspoons raspberry vinegar (or any)

In a wide, shallow pan, heat oil over medium high heat. Add beans, sprinkle with salt and cook without stirring until lightly charred (2-3 minutes). Flip with a fork or tongs, adding garlic and hot pepper. Cook until well browned (2-3 minutes). Splash with vinegar, stir to coat and serve. Serves 4.

 

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Tomato Heaven

Posted on August 26, 2019 by Ann Lovejoy
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Midnight Snack Cherry Tomatoes

Tomatoes For Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

It’s true. At this time of year, we’re eating tomatoes all day long, in sandwiches and wraps, in omelets and tacos, in salads and salsas. Ok, maybe not in smoothies. But seriously, tomatoes at their peak are beyond delicious and we’d be fools to let a day go by without at least a quick tomato-y snack. Of course I’m also roasting and freezing some to give winter sauces a taste of summer. Even so, each day’s harvest is bountiful enough to share and enjoy in as many ways as we can come up with.

We were recently gifted with a splendid grill, so of course we’re going a little wild with the grilled vegetables. Zucchini and squash, eggplants and beets, even peaches and plums are magically transformed by searing heat and savory smoke. Naturally I have to take it over the top and smoke a little salt and oil as well, just to add that subtle difference to everything from salads to sauces. Ripe, juicy tomatoes are a little tricky to grill unless you use a grill pan so they don’t fall through the grate bars, but they are heavenly, as are ripe avocados. Together, they’re even better, especially in a breakfast burrito like this one:

Gardener’s Breakfast Burrito

3 large eggs
2 tablespoons avocado or olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 ripe avocado, halved, pit removed
2 ripe tomatoes, halved
1 ripe Ancho or sweet pepper, quartered lengthwise
2 large flour tortillas
1/2 WallaWalla Sweet onion, thinly sliced
1/4 cup stemmed cilantro

Heat grill. Whisk eggs with 2 tablespoons water. Heat a teaspoon of oil in an 8-inch frying pan over grill (or medium heat). Pour in eggs, cover pan and cook until puffed and lightly set (3-5 minutes). Remove egg “pancake” to a plate. Brush cut sides of avocado, tomatoes, and pepper with oil and sprinkle with salt. Place avocado and pepper halves cut side down on hot grill and grill 2 minutes while you arrange tomato halves cut side down on a grill pan. Set grill pan on hot grill and grill for about 4 minutes; tomatoes should be warm and lightly charred but still holding together. Remove vegetables from grill and lightly grill tortillas for 1 minute, flipping once. Cut egg pancake in half and place in tortillas, top with lightly chopped or sliced grilled vegetables, sliced onions and cilantro and serve warm. Serves two.

Tomatoes For Lunch Or Brunch

Salad-Stuffed Pitas

Dressing
1 cup plain yogurt (whole milk or Greek works best)
1 fat clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon minced spearmint OR oregano
1 lemon, juiced
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

Mix dressing ingredients, adding lemon juice and salt to taste, set aside.

2 cups halved cherry tomatoes
1 cup chopped sweet peppers
1 cup finely shredded Kosmic Kale or cabbage
2 green onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
1/4 cup Kalamata olives, quartered lengthwise (optional)
Dressing (see above)
2 pita rounds, cut in half

Gently toss salad ingredients with dressing and stuff into pita pockets (I like to toast them lightly first but plain is good too). Serve immediately. Serves 2-4.

Vegetarian OR Vegan Tomato Tart

Tiger Blush, Gold Nugget, Seattle’s Best

Over the years, we’ve enjoyed so many versions of the classic Italian Tomato Pie. The basic recipe is very simple: Line a pie dish with crust, then layer in ripe red tomatoes with generous scatterings of garlic-y toasted bread crumbs and chopped herbs, such as basil, oregano, lavender and/or rosemary. Vegans can always leave out the cheeses; it will still be amazingly savory and delicious. Here’s this summer’s favorite version:

Summery Tomato Tart

1 pie crust (vegan or your favorite)
2 tablespoons fruity olive oil
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 cups fresh bread crumbs
1 teaspoon stemmed, chopped rosemary or thyme
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/8 teaspoon hot smoked paprika
6 cups ripe tomatoes, sliced if big, halved if small
1 cup fresh basil with stems, chopped
1 red onion, cut in half and thinly sliced
4 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup coarsely grated Pecorino or any hard cheese

Line a 9-inch pie dish with the crust, set aside. In a heavy frying pan, heat oil, garlic, and bread crumbs over medium high heat. Cook, stirring, until garlic is pale golden (3-4 minutes). Add rosemary, sprinkle with a little salt and paprika, cook 1 minute, set aside. Layer tomatoes, basil, onion slices and goat cheese into pie crust, sprinkling each layer with salt and pepper and alternating with (and ending with) bread crumb mixture. Top with grated cheese and bake at 400 degrees F until hot through (25-30 minutes). Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves at least one.

 

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Extracts Of Summer

Posted on August 19, 2019 by Ann Lovejoy
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Blueberry vinegar is the nectar of the divine

Flavorful Vinegars Keep Summer Alive

It’s high summer here, and the kitchen is full of fruit and vegetables, from figs and blueberries, nectarines and plums to squash and eggplants, tomatoes and peppers. Besides what we’re sharing with neighbors or eating fresh, we’re freezing and canning several times a week. I’m also making all sorts of vinegars, which we use for marinades as well as in dressings. Herbed, spicy, or fruity, vinegars add zip to salads both fruity and green as well as hot or chilled salads of potatoes, beets, and beans. My kitchen usually holds at least a dozen kinds of vinegars and they are always popular holiday gifts for family and friends.

Such specialty vinegars are made with hot vinegars, usually cider or rice based, depending on the flavor profile you want. Spicier vinegars that are lively with chili peppers and garlic are sometimes made with wine vinegar, which adds extra depth to the end result. To avoid weird metallic off-flavors, always heat vinegar in a non-reactive saucepan made of stainless steel or enamel and don’t use copper, cast iron, or aluminum pans. Whether flavored with herbs, vegetables, or spices, specialty vinegars are set aside to infuse for several days or even weeks before being carefully strained and rebottled in sterile containers. Make sure you remember to do this step as suggested in the recipe both by labeling the jars with the timing schedule and by marking your calendar to jog your memory (mine needs it, anyway).

The Value Of Small Batches

Until you settle on recipes that please you, it’s wise to make small batches of flavored vinegars (or pretty much anything, really). Write down everything you add so you can scale up the successes and modify any failures by adjusting seasoning or using sharper or milder vinegars. The quality of any flavored vinegar depends on the freshness of the additions and the base vinegar you choose: save gallon jugs of harsh white vinegar for cleaning windows. Milder vinegars such as unseasoned rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar will showcase the fruit and/or herbs, though mellow red or white wine vinegars can also be a good match for livelier additions.

Start out with one of the recipes below, then modify to your taste, experimenting to bring out the best in what ever’s most abundant in the garden. Use favorite combinations of herbs and spices, try pairing different kinds of peppercorns with lemon, orange, lime or grapefruit zest, as well various types of garlic and peppers. If some peppery vinegars taste a little harsh at first, a further period of rest time lets them mellow before using. At every stage, store specialty vinegars in a cool, dim place, not a sunny window, since the heat and light can cloud the vinegar and may even promote unwelcome bacterial growth.

Basic Herb Vinegar

2 cups red wine or cider vinegar
1/3 cup fresh herbs such as basil, fennel, tarragon, etc.

Bring vinegar to a boil in a small saucepan. Roll fresh herbs lightly with a rolling pin and put them in a clean pint jar. Pour in hot vinegar and close jar. Infuse for up to 2 weeks, tasting every few days until you like the intensity. When it’s just right, strain through muslin or a coffee filter into a sterilized bottle and seal. Use within 3 months.

Fabulous Fruity Vinegars

Nothing you can buy can match the power and purity of flavors when you make vinegars with freshly picked fruit. Some of our friends mix these vinegars with seltzer water for a very refreshing summer pick-me-up. I’ve been known to sip them straight or even pour a little over homemade peach ice cream…

Fresh Raspberry Vinegar

2 cups tart raspberries (slightly unripe ones work well)
1-1/2 cups cider vinegar or red wine vinegar
1/4 cup sugar or honey (preferably raspberry honey)

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.

Fresh Blueberry Vinegar

2 cups blueberries (tart ones work best)
2 cups cider vinegar
1 tablespoon grated lemon or orange zest
1/4 cup sugar or honey

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.

Cucumber & Dill Vinegar

2 cups coarsely chopped cucumber
1/4 cup dill sprigs, lightly packed
2 cups plain (unseasoned) rice vinegar
1/4 cup sugar or honey

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 48 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.

Nectarine & Lavender Vinegar

2 cups finely chopped ripe nectarines
2 tablespoons fresh or 1 tablespoon dried lavender buds
2 cups plain (unseasoned) rice vinegar
1/4 cup sugar or honey

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.

 

 

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Harvesting & Healthy Soil

Posted on August 12, 2019 by Ann Lovejoy
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Refreshing The Midsummer Garden

Here in the Maritime PNW, summer has been a mixed experience. It’s not unusual to have a string of warm days followed by chilly ones, or to wake up to a cozy grey marine layer that takes all morning to burn off. However, though we’ve had far more measurable rainfall than we’ve enjoyed in many years this summer, we’re still low for the year: A crazy wet February was followed by a hot, dry March (80 degrees on March 17, for instance); a crazy dry May chased a wetter-than-usual April, dry June and unusually wet July. Already in August we’ve had several significant storms with over an inch of rain and even lightning, very uncommon in this part of the world. Seems like every day brings reports of wild weather all over the world and it’s pretty hard to ignore.

Despite the swings, or maybe because of them, the garden is amazingly productive. That makes for wonderful meals and fast-filling freezers, as well as rows of beautifully filled canning jars. Beans are burgeoning, beets and kohlrabi are fattening, tomatoes are ripening like crazy and squash needs checking daily lest those elegantly slim zukes blow up into baseball bats overnight. In my delightful new community, neighbors swap plant starts and set out baskets of produce, including herbs and flowers for everyone to share. As our summer harvesting clears out space, we’re tucking in fall starts, along with a comforting mulch of compost. More beets, fall peas, fresh lettuce and greens, broccoli and Brussels sprouts, cabbage and as many kinds of kale as I can cram into these little bitty beds.

Cramscaping Rules

When beds are small but deep and full of good soil, it’s really quite remarkable how much can be crammed in without harm. I mix in a lot of annuals with edibles, both to attract pollinators and to be sacrificial if need be. If the tree kale gets going, out go the spent calendulas. Fading spring annuals get shaken around to sow the seeds for next year and fall planting proceed apace. Even in these brand new beds, it’s important to remember that, after a productive season, hard working edible beds need replenishment. Whether we plan to grow cool season crops or not, spreading compost and a light mulch of shredded leaves or bedding straw over emptied rows or beds will keep soil in good heart. Bare soil can cook in late summer heat, so cover it up to keep your soil alive and thriving. Recent research shows that less than an inch of compost is enough to kick start exhausted soil’s journey back to health. What’s more, that depleted soil can also begin to capture and store carbon quickly when that comforting compost blanket is layered on.

Everyone knows by now that our planet is suffering and it’s up to us to do all we can to help heal it. There’s already so much damage, and more being done every day, it’s very easy to slip into despair but we of all people can actually do something helpful. Anyone with acreage can plant trees, mingling wildlife-friendly natives with fruit and nut trees. Even without a lot of land, a lot can be accomplished: urban food forests are appearing in vacant Detroit lots as well as in well heeled Seattle parks. Anyone with a deck can pack pots with flowers and food crops, and even a window box can be lively with bees in the heart of the city.

Planting Hope And Oxygen

Whether we plant tomatoes or trees or preferably both, each area of living green is an oasis for critters and a sign of hope for humans. If we want a greener future, there’s no time like today to get started on planting our own corner of the world. Garden full? How about those sidewalk strips? Neighbors with more room than time or energy may be happy to allow you to make a garden for them. How about churches? Schools? Businesses? I suspect that changing commercial lawns into edible landscapes will be a lucrative job opportunity as people get serious about climate change.

Another huge gift to the world will be passing along our skills and plant knowledge to younger generations. If you don’t have kids or grandkids, borrow some! Mentor teens and young adults (or old adults, whatever) and help them start a good garden service. Around here, there are zillions of mow-and-blow crews but very few skillful, knowledgeable crews. Let’s change that, starting now. And not stopping. Ever. Right?

Make New Friends & Fill The Freezer

When both pantry and freezer fill up, it’s time to make soup! Make enough to share and sit down with some younger folks who just might want to learn a little more about growing and cooking.

Tuscan Bean Soup With Black Kale

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon fennel seed
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/8 teaspoon hot pepper flakes
1 organic lemon, juiced, rind grated
1 large onion, chopped
1 large bulb fennel with greens, chopped
2 sweet carrots, chopped
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
2 cups cooked white cannellini beans (or any kind)
1 quart vegetable or chicken broth
1 bunch Black Tuscan kale, cut in ribbons

In a soup pot, combine oil, fennel seed, half the garlic, the lemon rind, pepper flakes, onion, fennel (reserve 1/4 cup chopped greens), and carrots, sprinkle with salt and cook over medium high heat until barely soft (8-10 minutes). Add beans and broth, bring to a simmer and cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Puree in small batches with remaining garlic and return to pan. Add kale and pepper, cover pan and cook until barely wilted (2-3 minutes). Stir in lemon juice to taste and serve hot, garnished with fennel greens. Serves 4.

 

Posted in Annual Color, fall/winter crops, Garden Prep, Gardening With Children, Health & Wellbeing, Planting & Transplanting, Recipes, Sustainable Gardening | Tagged , , | 1 Comment