What IS The Soil Food Web, Anyway?

 

A World In Every Spoonful Of Soil

more photos at http://www.denniskunkel.com/

more scientific photos at http://www.denniskunkel.com/

I was recently asked to explain what the soil food web might be. A decade or so ago, only a handful of people in the country had even heard the term. These days, it’s more commonly used, yet many gardeners still wonder what on earth it means. The general concept of a food chain is fairly familiar, but not surprisingly, the real picture as applied to soil is more complex that the linear construct we often see in kid’s science books.

Instead of a straight line of critters feeding on the next lower rung on the environmental ladder, reality looks more like an interconnected web of life forms. More familiar models might show mammals and birds, but rarely include insects and plants. In real life, everything that can be eaten is involved in a cyclical food web, from algae to whales. It’s a web and a cycle because what goes around comes around: If few animals prey directly on Kodiak bears, a host of humble creatures from mice to microbes may dine on a bear’s carcass, assisting in a natural decay process that ends up nourishing new life.

The Amazing Life Of The Soil

The same kind of web is found in soil, where minute creatures feed on each other and plants eagerly lap up the residues (particularly bacterial excreta), leaving organic residues of their own (humus) which in turn feed microbial biota. Much the same kind of cycle can be found in water, and some folks even use the term “air food web” to describe the relationship between plants and insects.

When we add compost and other amendments to the soil, we are nourishing this host of tiny creatures, including bacteria, protozoa, and mycorrhizae. Soil biota are the microscopic beings that bring life to the mix of humus (rotting organic materials) and minerals that make up the non-living portion of soil. When we feed these minuscule arthropods and other beings, we feed the living soil. When the soil is rich and well fed, our plants flourish as well. Here’s a brief introduction to the cast of critters that create the soil food web and make soil come alive.

Beneficials and Pathogens

Soil fauna and flora come in many forms, from bacteria to nematodes and fungi. Some biota help build healthy soil and support healthy plants, and these are considered to be beneficials. Others can cause many problems for gardeners, from root rots to blights, molds, and mildews. These critters are considered to be pathogens. Both have a legitimate and important place in the growth and decay cycles of the natural world. In garden settings and on farms (places where we particularly enjoy the illusion of control), we prefer to boost the growth of our beneficials and suppress as many pathogens as we can.

Basically, when we improve soil tilth, texture, aeration, drainage, and nutritional content, we improve the •balance between helpful and harmful soil biota. All soils contain both bacteria and other kinds of biota, notably fungi, in varying proportions. Soils that are bacterially dominated are best suited for growing lawns, most annuals and perennials,  and most vegetables. Soils that are fungally dominated are best for woody plants (trees and shrubs).

Bacteria

Our native soils are full of bacteria, both beneficial and pathogenic. A spoonful of ordinary backyard soil  may contain billions of bacteria of thousands of different kinds, many of them specific to a region. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria dine off particles of humus, creating waste products (bacteria manure) that add new forms of organic content to soil.

Many plants absorb nutrients through this bacterial waste product, so the better the bacterial balance, the better the soil quality for plants. Bacteria (and bacteria’s waste products) are eaten in turn by fellow soil dwellers of many kinds. Thus, beneficial bacteria help retain the nutrients and organic matter they eat in the soil. Bacterially dominated soils are most favorable for lawns, flower beds, and most vegetables.

Earthworms

Charles Darwin wrote whole thick tomes about worms and their actions in the soil. In fact, he figured out that worms, not people, buried the dwellings of our ancestors. Worms are among the most beneficial of soil dwellers. Sadly they are harmed or killed by exposure to many pesticides and herbicides, including some common weed-and-feed products. Most gardens cherish their earthworms, knowing that these hard workers are the soil builder’s best friend. Worms do the mixing for us when we layer amendments onto garden soil. Worm tunnels open heavy soil to let air get down to plant roots. Worm castings promote sturdy root growth and feed many soil dwellers. It would be hard to have too many worms, but soils suffer quickly when worms are in short supply.

Fungi

Most gardeners assume that soil fungus most be bad but this is farâ from the truth. Fungi are vitally important to soil health and beneficial forms are found in virtually every kind of soil on earth. Like bacteria, fungal hyphae break down organic matter by digesting and excreting humus and recycle nutrients through the soil food chain. Healthy woodland soils are fungally dominated, meaning that there are more fungal creatures than bacteria.

To keep woodland soils healthy, we need to maintain the fungal balance by restoring the nutrients stored in fallen foliage that is often removed for the sale of visual tidiness. To restore the lost nutrients easily, simply shred the leaves and replace them as light mulch. Since woody plants grow best in a fungally dominated soil, “parking out” woodlands by replacing understory shrubs with grass usually results in stressed trees.

Microarthropods & Protozoa

These tiny recyclers feed on bacteria and fungi as well as plant particles, making nitrogen and other nutrients more readily available to plants and other soil biota. Soil dwelling protozoa eat bacteria and produce a manure rich in available nitrogen. Protozoa are a favored food for nematodes and other soil fauna, which release nitrogen and other nutrients back into the soil as they excrete in turn.

Nematodes

Nematodes, like fungi, are usually assumed to be pathogens but beneficial nematodes abound. Good garden soil contains an ample supply of beneficial nematodes which feed on many other creatures, from bacteria and protozoa to other nematodes (including the pathogens). These support root growth, passing vital nutrients along to plants through their manure. Pathogenic nematodes eat live plant tissue, harming roots rather than promoting healthy root growth. In healthy soil, beneficial nematodes help keep their pathogen cousins under control.

Pretty amazing stuff, and it seems likely that we barely know the half of it. Bottom line: love your soil and treat it well!

Posted in composting, Garden Prep, Nutrition, Pets & Pests In The Garden, Soil, Sustainable Gardening | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

When Kissing Cousins Marry

You Say Tomato, I Say Potato

It’s not often that a childhood fantasy comes true, but my, how delightful when one does. As a kid, I was fascinated by a neighbor’s mail order plant catalogs, especially those that featured amazing novelty plants. One memorable time, she ordered a roll-out garden that consisted of a thin fiber mat that was said to be full of seeds of colorful annuals to bloom all summer long. Sadly, despite our faithful watering, nothing ever appeared.

The same enchanting catalog offered a plant that promised to grow tomatoes on top and potatoes on the bottom. Of course we ordered it, but what we got was a withered looking seedling stuck into a shrunken potato that never did show signs of life. The idea, however, continued to intrigue me and many others. Tomatoes and potatoes are nightshade cousins, so might they in theory be compatible? Recently, that goofy idea has been realized in the form of a grafted combination called Ketchup ‘N Fries (or TomTato in the UK).

Wondering About Wonder Plants

Ketchup ‘N Fries is not a GMO Franken-plant, but the partnering of actual tomato and potato plants. Specially bred potato plants (the eventual root stock) and amazingly productive cherry tomato plants are carefully matched for stem size, then hand-grafted to create a vegetable chimera. The result is Ketchup ‘N Fries, a wonder plant that produces hundreds of super-sweet cherry tomatoes, along with a substantial harvest of full-sized potatoes.

The cute little tomatoes ripen quickly, ready for salads, snacking, roasting, and even ketchup making. The plump potatoes are harvested when the prolific tomato crop is done. According to the hybridizers, you can expect to harvest as much as 4 or more pounds of potatoes per plant, which is quite a good rate of return. (Many popular potatoes yield closer to 2-3 pounds per plant.) Once planted in the ground, you can expect these wonder plants to take up a fair amount of space, so allow at least 4 feet between plants if you grow more than one.

Potted Productivity

In the UK, these remarkable grafted plants have been called “a veggie plot in a pot,” and they were indeed bred to produce well even in captivity. They’ll do best in a generously sized container that holds between 15 and 20 gallons of planting soil would be perfect, especially half whisky barrels, which hold about especially a half whisky barrel, which holds about 4 cubic feet of potting soil.

Though most tomatoes or potatoes grow best in the ground, the Ketchup ‘N Fries partners are productive in pots thanks to patient breeding. Under development over the past 15 years, this pair is the result of a great deal of research and controlled breeding and can truly be called unique. Special hand-grafting techniques are required to pair a sweet hybrid short season indeterminate cherry tomato with a flavorful, mid-late season white potato. Again, no GMO is involved, only hand grafting of plants developed through years of hand crossing.

Even More On The Horizon

Happily, this extensive research and development is leading not just to grafted pairings like Ketchup ‘N Fries. From it are coming whole new classes of plants, including dwarf indeterminate tomatoes, which we will no doubt be seeing more of in the near future. To develop Ketchup ‘N Fries, SuperNaturals Grafted Vegetables LLC researched and trialled many promising combinations. It also took five years to come up with the special grafting processes that allow this crazy-cool partnership to thrive. This was assisted by the work of a Dutch breeder who had conducted similar research for 12 years, resulting in the TomTato introduced last year by England’s premier seed and plant company, Thompson & Morgan. All these eager folks continue to trial new potato-tomato combinations, and someday soon we may even see a delightful array of choices.

If you mail order Ketchup ‘N Fries plants, you can choose delivery for the last half of April or the first or last half of May. Early delivery will bring you plants that need the same coddling you’d give any heat loving tropical plant in spring. Be ready to keep your double-duty plant indoors or in a greenhouse until the ground warms up. This usually means waiting to plant until night temperatures get up into the mid- to high 50s. Cloches, water-filled jackets, floating row cover and similar protective measures will help your grafted baby plant to size up quickly. Though special planting and care directions  come with each plant, these cross-over cuties are as easily grown as any tomato.

Ketchup ‘N Fries are available from Territorial Seed Company, http://www.territorialseed.com, and plants will also be available in early spring from independent nurseries throughout Washington.

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Brightening The Bleak Midwinter

 

fennelFeeding Body And Spirit

This has been a tough winter in some ways, notably for family and dear friends struggling with physical and emotional issues. Several friends are dealing with serious illness and wounding, while others experience deep depression in these dark day. For my 91-and-counting Mom, this may be the last winter, giving each day a bittersweet quality. It may seem simplistic to feel that food can help such dire situations, but of course it can. Beautiful, wholesome, delicious food truly does nourish body and spirit and may even soothe a troubled mind, however briefly.

At this point in my life, I am glad to claim those brief moments of soothing and sweetness wherever they appear. Sharing them makes them even more precious, and I’m delighted to be able to look back on a pleasant meal with family and friends despite otherwise rocky situations. Lovely food, pleasingly presented, can tempt fading appetites and turn around a disappointing day. Thus I find cooking for others to be a high calling and even a sacred trust of sorts. Fortunately, it’s also fun and distracting in the best possible way. Here are some of my favorite recent distractions that found favor with a wide range of dismally distracted dear ones.

Fabulous Fennel

I learned to love fennel as an impoverished student in Italy. Though I never did like the cheesy fennel recipes, both sweet and savory combinations blew me away. Raw fennel with oranges is now old hat, but the first time I tasted them in a salad with cilantro and red onion, I gasped with joy. This velvety soup is a blissful partnership between lightly caramelized leeks and onions, fennel, and creamy potatoes. It gets a remarkable lift from Fennel Flower salt, a sumptuous blend of fennel blossoms and pink Himalayan salt from Viriditas Wild Gardens, a small family business in Days Creek, Oregon. They also make a spectacular Variety Basil salt that transforms pesto, salad dressings, and plain goat cheese, as well as a hauntingly subtle French Tarragon salt that does marvelous things for sliced oranges, grilled fish, and roasted apple rings.

Caramelized Fennel, Leek & Potato Soup

1 tablespoon avocado oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 clove elephant garlic OR 3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups sliced leeks (white and palest green parts only)
2 large bulbs fennel, chopped
3 cups chopped Yukon Gold potatoes
1/4 teaspoon fennel flower salt (or favorite seasoning salt)
1/4 teaspoon grains of paradise or pepper

In a soup pot, combine oil, onion, garlic and salt over medium high heat and cook until soft (6-8 minutes). Add leeks and fennel and cook for 10 minutes (mixture will brown). Add potatoes, cover pan and cook for 10 minutes. Add 6 cups water, cover pan, reduce heat to medium low, and simmer until potatoes are tender (15-20 minutes). Puree with an immersion blender and season to taste with fennel flower salt and grains of paradise or pepper. Serves 4-6.

Best Ever Brussels Sprouts

This dish was the hit of our holiday Open House, pleasing vegans and omnivores alike. Even–maybe especially–those who dislike Brussels sprouts (and sweet potatoes as well) fall for this combination in a big way. Most folks who claim to hate them have usually only experienced badly cooked sprouts (ditto sweet potatoes). For such, these come as a revelation, bright with cranberries and nary a marshmallow in sight.

Indeed, a pound or more of sprouts barely serves 2-3 people fixed this way, because the combination is so addictively more-ish. The key to fabulous roasted sprouts is to trim and halve them, then soak them in cold water for up to an hour before roasting, which keeps them plump and tender instead of dry and corn husk-ish. Avocado oil is another key, bringing rich, buttery flavor and taking high temperatures in stride (olive oils tend to scorch).

Jeweled Brussels Sprouts

1 pound Brussels sprouts
1-2 cups raw cranberries
1 tablespoon avocado oil
1 large sweet potato, peeled and chopped (1/2 inch)
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Trim and halve sprouts, soak in cold water, drain and pat dry. Rinse and pick over cranberries, drain well. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Pour avocado oil on a rimmed baking sheet and toss sprouts, cranberries and sweet potatoes to coat. Sprinkle with sea salt and roast at 400 degrees F until caramelized and tender (30-35 minutes). Spoon into a dish and toss with a little more oil if the mixture seems dry. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves at least one.

Happy New Year!

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Applemania

About That Apple A Day

If your mom ever told you that eating an apple a day was a healthy habit to develop, she was right on. Apples are among my top favorite fruit, so I am always glad to learn still more nutritional good news about them. Indeed, few fruits offer as many health benefits as the humble apple. From the tender skin to the crisp, sweet flesh, apples are packed with fiber, vitamins, and minerals. They also contain phytonutrients that help keep a multitude of diseases at bay. Recent research shows that the naturally occurring combinations of fiber, flavonoids and polyphenols in whole, fresh fruit are markedly more effective than isolated supplements.  Sadly, modern Americans drink apple juice more often than they eat fresh apples. Apples, blueberries, and grapes rank among the most beneficial of all fresh fruit, and eating just 5 servings a week offers significant health protection. However, replacing whole fruit with juices increases the risk of disease, so enjoy whole fruit often and consider juices as treats.

Like all fruits and vegetables, apples contain a goodly array of phytonutrients, complex combinations of natural chemicals. Mainly concentrated in apple skin and outermost flesh, these flavonoids and polyphenols provide generous amounts of antioxidants. Antioxidants combat free radical damage by reducing oxidation within cells, slowing cancer growth and preventing viral disease and autoimmune responses. No wonder apples help reduce blood pressure, fend off Alzheimer’s disease, improve eye health, and show anticancer effects in lab tests. While apples’ abundant vitamins and minerals are helpful, the synergistic interactactions with phytonutrients like quercetin and procyanidin, fiber, and other plant-based compounds fight cancer best.

Skin And All

Recent Cornell studies found that extracts of isolated phytochemicals are less effective at defeating cancer and other illnesses than the mixtures found in whole apples and other plant-based foods. This means that apples and other thin-skinned fruits and vegetables are best eaten skin and all. To limit residual pesticide intake, choose organically grown food whenever possible. (Many studies link pesticide exposure to the development of Parkinson’s disease, certain cancers, and many other illnesses.)

Though we are still learning just how different real food and synthesized foods are, the real thing wins hands down every time. Some people are surprised when I get more excited about apples than supplements (there seem to be a lot of supplement junkies these days), but it usually develops that they don’t know their apples. Of course, until recently, most supermarkets only carried a handful of varieties, many of them relatively tasteless. Red and Golden Delicious (or not so much) were the biggest sellers for decades, but today, we can choose amongst a wide range of heritage apples preserved for fabulous flavor as well as brand new introductions that combine outstanding taste with improved nutritional benefits.

Expand Your Apple Experience

My current favorite apples include Honeycrisp, an almost instant classic that would have been destroyed but for a chance tasting by a European grad student. This variety was a game changer for apple growers, who quickly realized that a truly outstanding apple could attract a huge new market. Opal, another newcomer, blends heritage flavor with modern snap, resulting in a spritely sweet-tart balance and crispy crunchability that is all but addictive. Opals have a bright and slightly spicy flavor that has a distinct floral finish (kind of like apricots). In the US, they’re grown by Washington State’s Broetje Orchards, partly as a First Fruits fundraiser for projects that serve the young in terms of education, nutrition, and food politics. What’s not to love?

If your local supermarket doesn’t stock many kinds of apples, visit farmer’s markets and farm stalls to find delicious new and heritage varieties with unique flavors and textures. Like what? Here’s a brief list:

Braeburn    Deep red, crisp and juicy, these dessert apples are wonderful for eating fresh, in sweet or savory salads, and are delightful when baked.

Bramley    Greeny-yellow with soft red stripes, England’s beloved heritage dessert apple is firm, juicy, and great for cooking. It’s also tasty when fresh.

Fiesta   England’s new hybrid dessert apple offers outstanding flavor, production, and disease resistance. Red flushed with green, it cooks beautifully and is very tasty fresh.

Fuji     Gently green with a red blush, this fragrant, crunchy-sweet Japanese variety is a splendid eating apple and makes lovely applesauce.

Honeycrisp   Heavenly flavor and texture makes this firm, deep red apple fabulous for out-of-hand eating and for cooking. Disease resistant, cold tolerant, and productive.

Northern Spy      This old fashioned New England favorite is an excellent keeper, delicious eaten fresh or cooked (super for pies).

Pink Lady   A pretty blush of pink overlies soft yellow skin, and the dense flesh is delicious, crisp, and resistant to browning. Fabulous in savory salads or sweet treats.

Queen Cox Select   A rare self-fertile apple, this plump, coral-red dessert apple boasts juicy, aromatic flesh that bakes beautifully. Highly productive and disease resistant.

Granny Smith    Bright green, crisp, and tart, this crunchy apple is fabulous in savory salads when freshly picked but loses quality when poorly stored.

Gravenstein   A greenish, rather lumpy American heritage apple that makes terrific pie, sauce, and cider.

King    This chubby, red-and-green striped apple was a much-prized cider apple for American pioneers. A good keeper, also great for cooking.

Best Eating Apples

Akane
Cameo
Criterion
Fuji
Gala
Honeycrisp
McIntosh
Macoun
Mutsu
Opal
Pink Lady

Best Cooking Apples

Braeburn
Coxes Golden Pippin
Gravenstein
Northern Spy
Spartan

Roasted Apple Rings

4 Braeburn, Cox, or Spartan apples, cored
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Slice apples into rings (1/2 inch thick) and rub with oil. Place on a rimmed baking sheet, sprinkle with salt and bake at 400 degrees F. until the edges are lightly caramelized (20-25 minutes). Serve with poultry or hot curry.

Baked Opals

This scrumptious, savory side also makes a pleasant light entree.

Savory Baked Apples

4 Opal or Fuji apples
2 ounces soft goat cheese, crumbled
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons dried cherries or apricots, chopped
2 tablespoons hazelnuts or walnuts, chopped

Core each apple, leaving skin intact. In a bowl, combine goat cheese, garlic and vinegar, stir in dried fruit and nuts and gently stuff apples. Bake at 350 degrees F until soft (30-40 minutes). Serves 4.

Apple & Turnip Soup

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
2 large turnips, peeled and diced
2 Yukon Gold potatoes, diced
1 cup unfiltered apple cider
1 quart vegetable broth
2 Opal, Gala, or any tart apples, cored and diced
1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt
1/4 cup cilantro, stemmed

In a soup pot, combine oil, onion, salt and paprika over medium high heat and cook for 5 minutes. Add turnips, potatoes, and apples, cover pan and sweat for 5 minutes. Add cider and broth, bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low and simmer until tender. Puree with an immersion blender and serve, garnished with yogurt and cilantro. Serves 4.

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