Of Raspberries Sweet And Savory

Posted on August 23, 2012 by Ann Lovejoy
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Enjoying Summer’s Berry Bounty

This was a terrific year for raspberries and my freezer is full, as is my jam shelf. As the next wave of berries begins, my thoughts are turning to more savory treatments for my favorite fruit. Raspberries are so versatile because their flavor is both strong and complex. They offer the palate not just a vague sweetness but a tasty cotillion of flavors that enhance all sorts of dishes, from soups and salads to entrees, sauces, dressings, and desserts.

An Old Fashioned Favorite

Well, truthfully, one of the best things I’ve made this summer is a baked custard layered over raspberry jam. Not too sweet, custard is cool and refreshing after a hot day and makes a heartening addition to breakfast as well.

Raspberry Custard

1 teaspoon butter
1 cup raspberry or any jam (peach is lovely too)
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
3 cups milk, scalded
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
grated nutmeg
hot water

Lightly butter a baking dish or pie dish and spread with jam. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Whisk eggs lightly, add sugar and salt, stir in scalded milk and vanilla. Add to pan, pouring over a spoon to avoid splashing or displacing jam, and add a bit of grated nutmeg. Place in a larger baking dish, add 1/2 inch hot water to outer pan and bake until set (about 45 minutes). Cool on a rack and serve warm or chilled. Serves 4-6.

Fish and Ripe Raspberries

Lively with ancho pepper and ginger, soothing with mint, this elegant entree is intriguing on the palate and pretty on the plate.

Halibut with Raspberries

1-1/2 pound halibut fillet
1 teaspoon virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 cup raspberries
1 Walla-Walla sweet onion, chopped
1/2 inch fresh ginger, finely chopped
1 ancho pepper, seeded and chopped
1/3 cup rice vinegar
1/2 organic lime, juiced, rind grated
1/4 cup mint, shredded

Rinse fish, pat dry. Rub skinless side with oil and pat on 1 clove garlic and 1/8 tsp. salt. In a bowl, combine raspberries, onion, ginger, chilies, vinegar, lime juice and rind, mint, and remaining garlic and salt. Toss gently, set aside. Grill or broil fish for 4-5 minutes per side, turning once. Remove to a plate, cover tightly with foil, let stand 5 minutes. Skin fish and serve with sauce.  Serves 4.

Match Raspberries With Walla-Walla Sweets

Dry-fried Walla Walla Sweet onions make a crunchy garnish for pan braised chicken. Fresh sorrel, raspberries, and cilantro combine in an almost instant sauce that adds a pleasingly piquant touch.

Chicken With Raspberries and Walla-Walla Sweets

1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
2 Walla-Walla sweet onions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 cup fresh sorrel, shredded
1 cup raspberries
1/4 cup cilantro, stemmed

Heat salt over medium high heat in a skillet that has a cover. Add onions and dry-fry, stirring gently, until juices run (2-3 minutes). Remove onions to a plate, add oil, pepper and chicken, cover the pan and reduce heat to medium. Cook for 4-5 minutes, turn chicken, cover pan and cook until chicken juices run clear (15-20 minutes, depending on thickness). Add sorrel, cover pan and cook until greens are barely wilted (2-3 minutes). Stir in raspberries and cilantro, cover pan and cook for 1 minute. Serve at once, garnished with onions. Serves four.

Raspberries In Salads? Sure!

I often toss a handful of raspberries or blueberries into my morning cereal. For a burst of extra flavor, add raspberries, strawberries, or blueberries and chopped mint to any green salad. To make a refreshing dressing or marinade, add 1/4 cup mashed raspberries or strawberries to any simple vinaigrette. Garnish a chilled cucumber salad with raspberries or blueberries and slivered green onions or chile peppers.

A Summery Entree Salad

Plump prawns, toasted walnuts, sweet fruit and bitter greens provide  alluring contrasts in this summery main dish salad.  The herbed marinade also makes a fabulous dressing on its own for greens, mixed fruit, grilled fish or roasted vegetables.

Prawn Salad with Raspberries

1/2 cup fruity virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 cups raspberries
1 tablespoon fresh lemon balm, shredded
1 teaspoon lemon thyme, stemmed
1 tablespoon mint or spearmint, chopped
1/8 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups peeled, cooked prawns
4 cups young mixed greens
4 cups baby spinach, stemmed
2 cup arugula and/or radicchio, shredded
1/4 cup red onion, finely chopped
1 nectarine, thinly sliced
1/4 cup toasted walnuts

In a food processor or blender, combine blend oil, vinegar, half the raspberries, the herbs, and salt. Puree, add to prawns, set aside (this can be done ahead and chilled). Combine all leafy greens, onion, remaining raspberries, and nectarine in a large bowl. Add shrimp, then drizzle marinade over salad. Toss lightly, garnish with walnuts and serve at once. Serves 4-6.

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Fresh Pestos From the Garden

Posted on August 13, 2012 by Ann Lovejoy
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A Parade Of Pestos

The first time I tasted a pesto, I was nineteen years old, studying in Italy at an art academy in Perugia. My friends were all art student or starving artists so we often made dinners for each other. The dish we enjoyed that night was fettuccini tossed with tiny cherry tomatoes and a pesto made with tomatoes, almonds, and basil. It was insanely flavorful and I immediately fell in love. Fortunately, I was taking cooking lessons from my neighbor, Signora Savino, who had us rolling out the pasta on a special long, narrow table with a built-in slot for a rolling pin as wide as the table.

Signora Savino insisted that each kind of pasta was best partnered with certain sauces and that it was a culinary crime to pair, say, a robust, chunky sauce with angel hair noodles. Oh, and heaven forbid we should serve a pasta sauce on rice! When I asked her about the tomato pesto we had devoured, she said firmly that the only genuine pesto was made with basil. She showed me how it was made in her family, and it truly was delicious; rich, creamy, savory and spicy hot from the garlic. Here’s her recipe:

Signora Savino’s Pesto

3 large cloves red skinned garlic, chopped
1/4 cup pine nuts (fresh but not toasted at all)
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1 bunch (about 4 cups) Genovese basil, rinsed, dried, stemmed
1/2 cup grated Peccorino cheese
few teaspoons extra virgin olive oil (very fruity)

In a mortar, mash garlic, nuts, and salt into a rough paste with the pestle. Add basil by the handful, grinding each addition well. Work in cheese, adding olive oil sparingly as needed to make paste smooth and creamy. Spoon into a glass jar, cover with a little olive oil and store, tightly sealed. Makes about 2 cups.

Safe Storage

Signora Savino did not have a refrigerator, and only made pesto when she was ready to use it. Today, I definitely store my pesto in the fridge, though it seldom hangs around more than a day or two. If I make a big batch, I leave out the garlic and freeze the pesto, first in a dedicated ice cube tray, then in tightly sealed freezer boxes. When I want to use it, I mash some garlic and stir it in to the thawed pesto before serving.

Interestingly, Signora Savino did not blanche the basil leaves (though they were carefully washed and dried), yet her pesto stayed bright green without discoloring the way pestos often do. I have since read about blanching the basil first, usually for just a few seconds, but in my experience, adding non-iodized sea salt before adding the basil seems to do the trick as well. I have to admit that I make my bright green basil pesto in my beloved cuisinart, not in my rather small mortar, even though I have been assured that the touch of the blade guarantees instant darkening of the pesto. Here’s my current recipe:

Summery Basil Pesto

2 tablespoons roasted almonds
3 large cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 teaspoon medium sea salt
6 cups basil leaves, rinsed, dried, stemmed
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup Peccorino cheese, gated
1/4 cup Romano cheese, grated

In a food processor, grind nuts, garlic and salt to a coarse paste. Add basil 2 cups at a time, drizzling in a little olive oil as well, nd grind to a fine paste. Add cheese, grind briefly to a coarse paste, adding oil to desired consistency. Refrigerate in glass jars, topped off with olive oil. Use same day or within a few days. Makes about 3 cups.

Southern Style Tomato Pesto

So what was that yummy tomato pesto all about? Turns out it was a Sicilian version, rich and nutty, almost like a tapenade. There are as many versions of this as of basil pesto, so here’s my current favorite:

Sicilian Pesto

8 Roma or sauce type tomatoes, halved
2 red bell peppers, halved and seeded
1/2 cup fruity olive oil
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 cup roasted almonds
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 cups basil, washed, dried, stemmed
1/2 cup Peccorino cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Rub tomatoes and peppers lightly with olive oil and place cut side down in a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt and roast until soft and slightly caramelized at the edges (40-50 minutes). Let cool. In a food processor, combine almonds, garlic and remaining salt and grind to a coarse paste. Add basil, grind to a fine paste. Add roasted vegetables and cheese, grind briefly, adding oil for desired consistency. Refrigerate in glass jars, topped off with olive oil. Use same day or within a few days. Makes about 4 cups.

Use any of these delectable pestos with hot pasta or in pasta salad, serve over grilled fish or chicken, or spread on crusty toast for bruchetta.

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Turning Corn To Summer Gold

Posted on August 8, 2012 by Ann Lovejoy
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Corn Pudding: The Evolution of a Recipe

I am often asked how I think up all the recipes I have offered over the years. Usually, the inspiration is whatever fresh produce and herbs look the best in the garden or the market. Sometimes a new ingredient or sauce comes my way, sparking new ideas. Other times, I simply give an old recipe a new twist–or two or three.

To show you how a recipe can progress, here is a series that evolved over several weeks. It all started with a terrific southern style Corn Pudding as made by my dear friend Roger Day. Rich, creamy, and rather sweet, it makes a luscious side dish for roasted chicken or pork. It’s perfect holiday food, delicious whether served warm or cold, and it might even taste best at room temperature.

Roger’s Corn Pudding

2 tablespoons butter
1 16-ounce can creamed corn
1 16-ounce can whole kernel corn, drained
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
3/4 cup half-and-half or cream
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly butter a baking dish (I used an 8×8 square), set aside. In a bowl, combine creamed corn, drained corn, eggs, milk, sugar, flour, and salt and stir to blend. Pour into baking dish, dot with remaining butter and bake at 350 until golden (50-60 minutes). Serves 4-6.

Let’s Lighten It Up A Little

I loved the flavor and texture of Roger’s dish but wanted a lighter version as well. Thus, my first renovation, Savory Corn Pudding, features lots of shredded fresh basil, along with a dash of Worcestershire, and black pepper. The changes emphasized the flavor of the whole corn kernels and gave the dish a pleasing depth.

Savory Corn Pudding

1 16-ounce can creamed corn
2 cups whole kernel corn, thawed or drained
1/2 cup milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup basil, stemmed and shredded
1 tablespoon whole wheat flour
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a bowl, combine creamed corn, whole corn, milk, eggs, basil, flour, and Worcestershire sauce, and pepper and stir to blend. Pour into baking dish (I used an 8×8 square) and bake at 350 until golden (50-60 minutes). Serves 4-6.

Lighter Still

To create an entree dish that takes advantage of fresh summer corn and didn’t use canned creamed corn (not a staple in my pantry), I poured another modified version over leftover cooked chicken and Chicken Corn Pudding was born. Green chilies, cilantro and chipotle tabasco sauce lend this version a Tex-Mex flavor without overwhelming the natural corn sweetness.

Chicken Corn Pudding

1 teaspoon olive oil
2 cups cooked chicken, in bite-sized pieces
3 cups whole kernel corn (cut off cob)
1/2 cup whole milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup cilantro, stemmed
1 mild green chile, finely chopped
1 tablespoon whole wheat flour
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
few drops chipotle tabasco sauce

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Rub a baking dish (I used an 8×8 square) with olive oil, layer on chicken, set aside. In a blender or food processor, combine half the corn with the milk and process to a coarse puree. In a bowl, combine pureed corn, whole corn, eggs, cilantro, 1/4 cup green chiles, flour, salt, and tabasco and stir to blend. Pour over chicken in baking dish and bake at 350 until golden (50-60 minutes). Serves 4-6.

Succulent and Slightly Sweet

Finally, a delicious and subtly sweet Shrimp Corn Pudding adds cooked shrimp, garlic, and green onions to the batter.  All of these dishes can be served hot, warm, or cold, making them great choices for a brunch, a potluck, or anytime when you prefer not to fuss over the food.

Shrimp Corn Pudding

1 teaspoon olive oil
2 cups cooked, cleaned shrimp
3 cups whole kernel corn (cut from cob)
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 red onion, chopped
1 tablespoon whole wheat flour
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Rub a baking dish (I used an 8×8 square) with olive oil, layer on shrimp, set aside. In a blender or food processor, combine half the corn with the yogurt and process to a coarse puree. In a bowl, combine pureed corn, whole corn, eggs, garlic, red onion, flour, salt and pepper and stir to blend. Pour over shrimp in baking dish and bake at 350 until golden (50-60 minutes). Serves 4-6.

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Refreshing Drinks For Hot Days

Posted on August 5, 2012 by Ann Lovejoy
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Soothing Summer Sippers

Every summer, my son Peter makes a fantastic rosemary lemonade concentrate, which he generously shares with me and others. It packs a lot of flavor so I like to dilute it considerably, though many of my friends like to mix up a stronger glass. I often blend the lemonade with my other favorite summer drink, Barley Tea, which I make by the half-gallon every few days. Both are truly thirst quenching, especially when the temperature soars suddenly and our poor bodies struggle to adjust.

Barley Tea has been a traditional summer drink for field workers in Japan and Korea for centuries. It is very simple, consisting entirely of roasted and ground barley and water. Depending on how long you roast your barley, it can be pleasantly mellow or slightly rough, with a coffee-like quality that is enhanced by longer steeping time. I often buy packaged Korean barley tea in big bags that hold about 1/4 cup ground barley. Each one is supposed to make a quart but I brew one bag in 2 quarts of cold water, leaving it to steep in the fridge overnight.

Roasting Barley

The Korean barley tea is a seriously dark roast, coarsely ground and almost as black as coffee. Most recipes (such as they are) call for unhulled barley, but hulled works fine if that’s all you can find. I tried roasting the grain in an iron skillet on the stovetop but found it easier to roast it in the oven. I fill my largest cast iron frying pan with 3-4 cups barley and bake it at 350 F, along with whatever I’m making for dinner. I give the pan a shake now and then and in about an hour, the grain turns a deep, even brown. If you prefer a darker brew, try using a 400 degree oven.

Cool the grain and grind it coarsely in a food processor or blender. It works best to grind the grain in small batches of 1 cup or less. Many recipes call for additional roasting and I again find oven baking to give evener results than stovetop cooking. Fill self-sealing tea infusion bags or muslin herb bags with 1/4 cup roasted grain. Store in a tightly sealed box or jar in the freezer to keep grains fresh. Each bag will make 1-2 quarts tea, using hot or cold water depending on how you like your tea.

Making Rosemary Lemonade

Rosemary Lemonade combines the brisk, aromatic qualities of rosemary with the bright, citrusy freshness of lemons (though it’s also good with limes). Making this delicious summer treat requires two sub-products, both quite simple to make. The first, Rosemary Infusion, can also be used as a rinse to give your hair fragrant, supple softness, and the Lemon (or lime) Simple Syrup is lovely drizzled over chopped fruit, ice cream, fruit cobblers, or hot pancakes.

Rosemary Infusion

1/4 cup rosemary (big stems removed)
2 cups water

Place rosemary in a glass bowl. Bring water to a boil, pour over rosemary and cover bowl with a plate. Steep for up to an hour (taste now and then to find your preference), strain and pour into a sterile canning jar. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

Lemon Simple Syrup

2 cups cane sugar
2 cups water
rind of 1 organic lemon, in long strips

Combine all ingredients in a non-reactive pan, bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Cool and pour into a sterile canning jar. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

Rosemary Lemonade Concentrate

1 cup lemon juice (if fresh, 4-5 lemons)
2 cups Simple Lemon Syrup
1 cup Rosemary Infusion (or to taste)
1 quart (or more) plain or sparkling water

Combine all ingredients, adjusting to taste. Serve cold or over ice. Makes about 2 quarts.

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