Marvelous Meatless Meals

Posted on November 14, 2011 by Ann Lovejoy
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A Bevy Of Beautiful Beans

Though the summer was disappointing in many ways, it was a pretty good year for beans. We ate most of our beans fresh, but our local farmer’s markets offer a gorgeous array of dried beans: I’ve found Scarlet Runner, Black Pearl, Dragon Tongue, Anasazi, Painted Lady, Cranberry, Pinto, Broad Windsor, and Favas to try.

North Americans are not huge bean eaters in general, but colorful, flavorful beans are treasured around the world. In Japan, bars serve Beer Friend edamame, fresh soy beans eaten like popcorn. In China, Adzuki beans are considered medicinal; high in complex protein, iron, folate, potassium, zinc and fiber, these wonder beans also lack soy’s phytoestrogens, so are safe for those with breast cancer.

Beans and Proteins

Adults need about 7 grams of protein for every 20 pounds of body weight each day. That might mean 35 daily grams for a small woman or 70 for a big guy. Americans often over-eat proteins, but like any food, excess protein is stored as fat, and may weaken bone mass and stress kidneys. Also, while red meat offers complete protein, it comes with lots of saturated fats.

A healthy diet includes multiple protein sources, including beans, grains, nuts, and vegetables. Non-meat proteins work best in partnerships that offer all the amino acids we need. Classic meatless combinations include Mexican rice and beans, Indian beans and grains, and Mediterranean beans with vegetables and cheese.

Make My Day Meatless

Oatmeal or breakfast cereal with yogurt, an almond butter/apricot jam sandwich, and a dinner of fish with three bean salad easily adds up to a day’s worth of protein. For variety, try chipotle-spiked bean tacos with corn tortillas and cheese; salmon with black bean salsa; black rice with curried adzuki beans; or serve fresh bread with my favorite Tuscan bean spread instead of butter.

Bean Buyers Beware

Note: If you use canned cooked beans, rinse very well before using. Make note of and avoid the brands whose cans have white lining; there are health concerns associated with this epoxy coating, which leaches significant amounts of Bisphenol A (BPA). In the human body, this substance mimics estrogen, and exposure to BPA is linked with elevated risks for breast cancer in adults and early puberty in children.

The FDA estimates that canned food makes up 17% of the American diet. BPA can linings are common, yet there are presently no FDA regulations or guidelines for its use, though several billion pounds are made annually. The Environmental Working Group (EWG), a watchdog consumer entity, found BPA in over half the canned goods they tested, at  “200 times the government’s traditional safe level of exposure for industrial chemicals.”

EWG tests of canned products showed that chicken soup, infant formula, and ravioli contained the most BPA, and that even a single serving of the most contaminated foods exposes women and children to amounts of BPA shown to cause serious adverse effects in animal testing.

Grow Your Own or Buy Local Organic

Once again, the best advice is to grow your own or buy organically raised beans sources. If you can, buy locally grown organic beans; you’ll find they need less soaking and cooking time and reward you with lovely texture and rich, subtle flavors.

Tuscan White Bean Spread

2 cups cooked Cannelloni or any white beans, rinsed
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 organic lemon, juiced, rind grated
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fruity virgin olive oil

In a food processor, combine beans, garlic, lemon rind, pepper flakes, salt, and pepper and puree to a fairly smooth paste. Open feed tube and add oil while processor is running. Add lemon juice to taste, starting with 2 teaspoons. Makes about 2 cups. Refrigerate leftovers, but serve at room temperature.

Quinoa with Caramelized Pears And Black Beans

1 cup quinoa, rinsed and drained
1 teaspoon cumin or celery seeds
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce or shoyu
8 leaves Butter or Boston lettuce
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 Bartlett pears, cored and quartered
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1-1/2 cups black beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
1 lime, quartered

In a heavy bottomed saucepan, toast quinoa and cumin seeds over medium high heat until browned (3-5 minutes), shaking often. Add 2 cups water and the salt, bring to a boil, cover pan, reduce heat and cook until tender (15-20 minutes). Meanwhile, arrange lettuce on 4 dinner plates. Heat oil in a frying pan over medium high, add pear slices and brown well (3-4 minutes per side). Add 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and cook for 1 minute. Remove pears to lettuce plates. Add beans and remaining balsamic vinegar to pan, bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Toss beans with cooked quinoa and yogurt and put a scoop on each plate. Serve with a wedge of lime. Serves four.

Bean Tips

To explore the world of beans, visit a bulk food department and buy just a cup of several kinds. Try adzuki beans with curried rice, black turtle beans with fresh lime and cilantro, or white beans with diced tomatoes and basil.

For perfect beans quickly, cover 1 cup beans with 4 cups water, bring to a boil, remove from heat, cover pan and let sit for 1 hour. Drain, rinse, and return beans to pan with 3-4 cups water or broth. Bring to a simmer over low heat and cook until tender (20-40 minutes).

Salt can toughen beans, so only season completely cooked beans. For a fuller flavor, use soy sauce, tamari, shoyu, ponzu, or Braggs Liquid Aminos instead of salt.

Beans love peppers, so try adding 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon dried pepper flakes, chipotle peppers, cayenne, smoked paprika, or tabasco as soon as the bean skins are tender.

To give beans a new flavor, add rosemary, oregano, sage, tarragon, thyme, or summer savory to the cooking water.

Enjoy soy in moderation, eating tofu or edamame 2-3 times a week. Avoid concentrated soy extracts, which can have estrogenizing effects.

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Pumpkin, Squash and Apples, Oh My

Posted on November 7, 2011 by Ann Lovejoy
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Feasting On Autumn Bounty

A reader recently asked for a recipe for soup made with pumpkin or squash and apples. He had found recipes that involved apples as garnish, but that was not the way the original soup he recalled enjoying was made. It was also not the kind of squash soup flavored with curry and cilantro. Did I have any ideas?

As it happens, I love both pumpkin and squash and eat quite a bit of both (to the astonishment of my kids). In fact, one of my favorite things to eat when I am cooking for myself is pureed squash with orange juice and lots of pepper. This hardly qualifies as a recipe, but the concept can be turned into a tasty soup very easily, as you can see below. As always, when you use citrus rinds in food, be sure to buy organic oranges to avoid eating the fungicides that linger in the skins.

A Squash To Eat Whole

The long, slender, orange and brown striped squash called Delicata makes a marvelous soup or puree with a rich but delicate flavor. I especially love this squash because the thin rind is as tasty as the filling, so you can eat it skin and all, just like a baked potato (if both are organically grown, of course). Since so many nutrients cluster just under the skin, eating Delicata squash whole boosts its nutritional impact as well.

These slim squashes can  also be split in half lengthwise, stuffed with almost anything (try onions, walnuts, and mushrooms), then baked for a delicious vegetarian entree. Stuff halved smaller ones with onion, salsa, and black olives for a snappy side to serve with baked chicken or fish.

A Trio of Autumn Soups

Looking back through my own recipe files, I found quite a few recipes for pumpkin soup, some of which include apples. The sweeter version uses dessert apples for extra body. My notes say to use Cox’s Orange Pippins, but Bramleys are also excellent. Any sweet, fragrant apple will taste great in this recipe, so try several different kinds or use a combination of your favorites. If you don’t like soups with a chunky texture, gently squish the apples with a fork or potato masher before adding the pumpkin pulp.

Peppery Squash Soup

1 teaspoon fruity olive oil
1 teaspoon butter
1 onion, chopped
1 ancho chile pepper, finely chopped
2 cups fresh or frozen squash puree
1 organic orange, juiced, with grated rind
OR 2-3 tablespoons orange juice concentrate
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
sea salt and pepper
4 tablespoons Greek yogurt (optional)
1/2 cup diced Honeycrisp apple

Heat oil and butter in a saucepan over medium high heat. Add onion and chile pepper and saute until onion is limp. Stir in squash and orange juice, adding rind to taste (start with 1 teaspoon). Stir in broth and season to taste with salt and pepper (I use lots). Heat through and serve hot, garnished with yogurt and diced apple.

Pumpkin and Apple Soup

4 cups milk (rice milk works fine)
2 cups dessert apples, peeled and diced (1/4 inch pieces)
4 cups pumpkin pulp (fresh or canned) OR squash puree
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon coriander powder
1 teaspoon coriander powder
Sea salt and pepper
1 tablespoon organic pasture butter

Heat milk and apples in a saucepan over medium high (do not boil) until  milk is hot and apples are soft (about 10 minutes). Add pumpkin pulp, stirring until smooth. Stir in sugar and spices, adding salt and pepper. Heat milk and apples in a saucepan over medium high (do not boil) until  milk is hot and apples are soft (about 10 minutes). Add pumpkin pulp, stirring until smooth. Stir in sugar and spices, adding salt and pepper to taste. Heat through and serve, garnishing each portion with a pat of butter (eat when butter melts).

Hearty Pumpkin Soup

This more savory soup includes chunks of lean ham. A smoky, relatively un-salty, organically raised ham makes this hearty dish especially memorable. For this one, almost any kind of apple will do, though a tart, snappy variety like Fuji or Granny Smith tastes especially good. If you prefer a richer flavor and more velvety texture, substitute milk or heavy cream for half the broth.

Pumpkin Soup With Ham

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon butter
1 onion, chopped
2 cups apples, peeled and diced (1/4 inch pieces)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
4 cups pumpkin pulp or squash puree
1 cup lean smoked ham, diced (1/4 inch pieces)
Sea salt and pepper
4 tablespoons Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons parsley, stemmed

Heat oil and butter in a saucepan over medium high heat. Add onion, apples, and thyme and saute until onion is golden and apples are soft. Add pumpkin or squash and stir until smooth. Stir in broth and ham and heat gently (do not boil). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm, garnished with yogurt and parsley.

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Great Grafted Results After An Awful Summer

Posted on October 29, 2011 by Ann Lovejoy
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Grafted Tomatoes Make Good, If Late

This summer was so cold that my poor heat loving crops just sat waiting patiently until August, when finally the nights warmed up enough to goose them into productivity. My pal Rick had similar results, both with grafted tomato plants he bought and some he grafted for himself. He gave plants to his brother as well, who in early August told him they were all doing dreadfully and he thought the whole thing was “a bust.”

However, last week, Rick’s brother asked him what to do with a glut of tomatoes. When the heat finally arrived, it kick-started his grafted tomatoes into high gear and now he has more fruit than he knows what to do with. Like mine and Rick’s, the grafted plants produced larger fruit than the ungrafted ones, and he feels the flavor is better as well.

Never Too Much Of A Good Thing

I wrote about green tomatoes a few weeks ago (see October 3), but there are always more fun things to do with green tomatoes. In my experience, any firm fruit that show even a little color will continue to ripen in the company of ethylene-producing fruit like apples and bananas, but there are quite a few instance where green tomatoes are far better than ripe ones.

For example, green tomato chutney is a great favorite with my family and friends. We eat it like relish on turkey burgers and use it to jazz up a plain tuna salad sandwich. It’s also a delicious condiment with roast chicken, turkey or pork, and adds zest to a bowl of steamed vegetables and tofu over rice.

Green Tomato Chutney

1 quart green tomatoes
2 large yellow onions
4 large apples
6 cloves garlic
3 cups cider vinegar
1 pound dark brown sugar
2 cups fructose or any sugar
1 cup golden raisins
2-3 tablespoons garam masala (Indian spice powder)

OR the following:
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
2 teaspoons coriander powder
2 teaspoons ginger root powder
1 teaspoon mustard powder
1 teaspoon  nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon cumin seed

Rinse fruits and vegetables. Stem tomatoes,  peel and chop onions, core apples and cut all into 1/2 inch pieces. Peel garlic and chop in fine pieces. Put them all in a large stockpot with vinegar, adding water just to cover.  Bring to a boil and stir in sugar, raisins, and spices. Boil 2 minutes, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Pack chutney into canning jars and seal according to directions on lid package. Refrigerate after opening. Makes 4 pints.

Fried Green Tomatoes, Of Course

Everybody I know loves fried green tomatoes and everybody has a favorite recipe. I think you’ll like mine, which is crunchy and a bit spicy on the outside and melting with cheese on the inside. The cornmeal coating makes it a terrific side dish for any kind of fish (notably pan-fried catfish). A plateful of these golden brown treats also tastes terrific with barbecued chicken.

Fried Green Tomatoes

6 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese
4 green tomatoes (same width as mozzarella)
2 eggs
1 1/2 cup finely ground cornmeal
1 teaspoon kosher or any salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 to 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
2 tablespoons grated pecorino OR Romano cheese
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
1-2 teaspoons butter

Rinse and stem tomatoes and slice horizontally in 1/4 inch thick wheels and sprinkle tops lightly with salt and pepper (about 1/2 teaspoon of each).  Slice mozzarella as thinly as possible, making enough slices to top each green tomato wheel. In a shallow bowl, beat eggs until foamy. In a pie dish or large shallow bowl, combine cornmeal, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper, chile flakes (use the lesser amount if you don’t like heat), and grated cheese. Stir to mix well. Preheat oven or toaster oven to warm and put in an empty oven-proof serving platter. In a frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon oil and 1 teaspoon butter until foamy.  Dip each set of tomato and mozzarella as a unit, first into the egg, then into the cornmeal. Brown quickly in the hot oil, cooking for 3-5 minutes on each side and turning once. Remove to warm over platter when done. Continue until all pieces are cooked, adding more oil and butter as needed. Serves four.

Green Chile Jam?

Green tomato and chili jam is not for everybody, but people who like sweet and spicy dishes usually love it. Try it on water crackers with a dab of cream cheese and some smoked salmon. This glowing green jam also makes a piquant condiment for roast chicken or fish.  You can also stir some into salad dressing to enliven either mixed fruit or tossed greens. It also provides a sparkling counterbalance to the bland starches of plain old rice and beans.

Green Tomato and Chile Jam

2 large green tomatoes
2 green bell peppers
4 cloves garlic
4-6 medium hot chile peppers
4 cups fructose OR 6 cups table sugar
1 pint cider vinegar
1 packet pectin

Rinse fruits and vegetables. Stem and coarsely chop tomatoes. Stem and seed bell peppers and coarsely chop. Peel and chop garlic. Using protective gloves (or great care), stem and seed chiles and chop coarsely.  Combine chopped pieces in a  food processor (or blender) with 1/4 cup vinegar and puree (whirl to a frothy liquid). Put puree in a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring in remaining vinegar and sugar. Bring to a boil, stir until sugar is dissolved, and add pectin, stirring constantly. Boil and stir for 1 minute, remove from heat and skim off any foam. Bottle at once, sealing lids according to directions on lid package. Refrigerate after opening. Makes 6 cups.

Old Fashioned Green Tomato Pie was traditional end-of-summer fare when most families grew their own food.  Farm wives used cinnamon and ginger to make it taste like apple pie before the apple crop ripened, so adjust the seasoning to your pleasure. You can even make a savory version by eliminating the sugar, trading nutmeg for thyme or parsley, and adding onions, celery, and carrots, as well as pepper. It’s all good!

Green Tomato Pie

2 9-inch pie crusts
1 cup sugar
1 organic lemon, juiced, rind grated
3 tablespoons flour
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg or cinnamon
6-7 cups green tomatoes, sliced like apples
1 tablespoon butter

Line a pie dish with a crust, set aside. In a bowl, rub sugar with lemon rind to fragrance point (about 15 seconds). Add flour, egg, lemon juice, salt, and nutmeg and stir. Add tomatoes, toss gently to coat, layer into pie shell and dot with butter. Top filling with second crust, trim edges, crimp edges, and slash several times to vent steam. Bake at 425 for 20 minutes, reduce heat to 400 and bake until golden and bubbling (20-25 minutes). Let cool before slicing. Serves 6-8.

Fresh Green Tomato Salsa

4 cups green tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 red or sweet onion, coarsely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, finely chopped (use gloves)
1 ear sweet corn, kernels trimmed
2 tablespoons fruity virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lime juice or plain rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 cup cilantro, stemmed

Combine all ingredients in a serving bowl and let stand for 30 minutes before serving. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.

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Have A Pumpkin Party

Posted on October 26, 2011 by Ann Lovejoy
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Beyond Pie: Making The Most Of Your Pumpkin Patch

I love the way pumpkin patches look at this time of year. The fading foliage is largely gone and the ripening globes stand out like glowing lanterns in the browning fields. As Halloween approaches, pumpkins of all sizes appear in farmers’ markets and grocery stores, from tiny treats to grotesquely huge carvers.

Carving pumpkins has always been one of my favorite fall activities. Some years, I gently scratch patterns on my growing pumpkins so the scar tissue makes images of flowers and foliage, birds and animals as well as the usual funky faces.

What To Do With Pumpkin Guts

A number of people have asked me what to do with the pumpkin innards that must be removed to make room for candles. Most of the good can go straight into the compost heap. In fact, I often clean pumpkins on a picnic table near my compost, so it’s easy to toss what I don’t want onto the pile.

I clean the inside of my pumpkins with a trowel or a huge serving spoon, getting all the stringy bits out. If the sides are scraped as clean as possible, the inevitable rot will be slowed down. I pick out as many large, ripe pumpkin seeds as possible, putting them in a bowl of water to rinse off the sticky stuff.

Make Your Own Pepitos

Pumpkin seeds are tasty and nutritious, and we use them often as snacks, in salads, as garnish for soups, and in rice or pasta dishes. I also use them in pestos, where they replace pinenuts, walnuts, or almonds.

To make your own rinse the seeds well and dry in a single layer on parchment paper. When dry, toss with a little olive oil and sea salt, then place them on parchment paper on a rimmed baking sheet and bake at 325 F. until crisp (8-12 minutes). Store pepitos in a tightly sealed jar out of direct light for up to 2 months.

Roasted Pumpkins

There are so many ways to enjoy eating pumpkins that pie is almost the least of them. For instance, you can roast chunks of pumpkin with potatoes and carrots, then toss in mild curry powder and sea salt and serve as a savory side with chicken or fish.

For a delicious entree, saute diced pumpkin with garlic, onions, and sliced kalamata olives, then toss with hot pasta. Sprinkle with soft goat cheese and lots of pepper and serve with a green salad garnished with toasted pumpkin seeds.

Baby Pumpkins

Cook mini pumpkins whole in the oven or microwave, poke a few holes with a fork, then cook until barely tender (about 20-30 minutes in the oven, and 3-4 minutes in the microwave). Cut off the top, remove the seeds and refill with something yummy for individual servings.

For a savory version, fill tiny pumpkins with spicy chili, topped with pepperjack cheese and fresh cilantro. For a sweet-hot treat, mash in a spoonful of orange juice concentrate and some chopped ancho peppers. For a totally cute dessert, fill little pumpkins (raw, and cleaned) with pumpkin pie filling and bake on a rimmed baking sheet until set (about 30 minutes).

Pureed Pulp

I use my Squeezo Strainer to remove the strings from cooked pumpkin, making a smooth pulp with lots of tasty uses. Adding pumpkin pulp to curried chicken boosts both flavor and richness as well as coconut milk without adding any fat. Stir pumpkin pulp into chili, adobo, or pork stew for a new take on old favorites.

You can also make lovely pumpkin soup, flavored in a dozen ways, by sauteeing onions and garlic, then adding pumpkin pulp and water or broth with various combinations of herbs and spices. Ginger, coriander, and cumin give an Indian flair, while chipote flakes, cumin, and oregano add a Southwestern twist. Rosemary, lemon zest, and fresh basil give it Italian overtones, while cilantro, ginger, soy sauce and hot chili oil give it Asian flavor qualities.

Sweet Treats Too

On the sweet side, you can add a cup each of pumpkin pulp and chocolate chips to your favorite bread pudding recipe with delightful results. Make pumpkin bread using a banana bread recipe and 1-1/2 cups of pumpkin pulp, adding ginger and nutmeg as well as chunks of crystalized ginger for extra zip.

Roasted Pumpkin Soup

A beautiful centerpiece, this rich, spicy soup makes any meal feel festive.

1 large (8-10 inch) pumpkin
1 head garlic, broken into cloves, not peeled
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1-2 teaspoons powdered ginger
2 quarts vegetable or chicken broth, hot
1 cup organic heavy cream, warmed
1/4 cup soft goat cheese, crumbled

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.  Remove top inch of pumpkin with stem and scrape out seeds. Place pumpkin cut side up in a baking dish, tuck garlic cloves inside and bake at 425 until tender (about 30-45 minutes). When tender, gently scoop out pulp, taking care not to damage outer shell.  Mash pulp with peeled roasted garlic  and salt, pepper, and ginger to taste. Stir in broth (start with 1 quart and add to almost fill pumpkin shell). Stir in cream and serve at once, garnished with cheese. Serves 4-6.

Favorite Pumpkin Pie

1 pie crust
2 cups cooked pumpkin pulp
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1-1/2 cups whole milk
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/2 cup walnut halves

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Press crust into a 9 inch pie pan and flute edges. Blend all remaining ingredients but maple syrup and walnuts, stirring well. Pour into pie shell and bake 15 minutes at 425. Reduce heat to 350 and bake for 45 minutes or until pie is done. Arrange walnuts over the top, pour maple syrup evenly over the pie and return to oven for 10 minutes, then let pie cool in oven (with heat off.) Serve warm. Serves at least one.

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Muffins

Buttermilk and gives these tender treats a delicate texture. This is one of my family’s favorite treats, and they taste even better the second day (if any are left).

1 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 egg, beaten
1/4 cup canola oil
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1 cup unbleached white flour
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup dark chocolate chips

Preheat oven to bake 350 degrees F and line a muffin tin with paper muffin cups. In a bowl, stir together the pumpkin, brown sugar, egg, oil, and buttermilk, set aside. Sift dry ingredients together and stir quickly into the pumpkin mixture. Stir in chocolate chips and spoon into muffin cups. Bake until set and golden (about 20-25 minutes). Makes 12 muffins.

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