Gardening When Water Becomes Scarce

Planning and Planting the Dry Garden

The lovely rain is so welcome that I can hear neighbor kids laughing and singing as they run in the refreshing wetness. Although our Northwestern summers are typically very dry indeed, this year takes the prize for heat and drought. Though some folks struggled to deal with water restrictions, the good news for gardeners is that limiting water use need not spell garden ruin nor even deprivation. Sensible plant choices and intelligent watering techniques will help keep our gardens healthy and attractive no matter what next summer brings.

However, a few changes in our usual methodology may be in order. If you are renovating a bed or just beginning to garden, consider adapting dry garden techniques that have proven highly effective (and handsome) in England and elsewhere. Dry gardens are based on well chosen plants that can thrive with relatively little input from the gardener. Typically, they hold a mixture of natives and allies from other parts of the world with similar weather patterns.

How To Make It Work

In brief, here are the basics of dry garden construction:

* Build mounded beds for good drainage.
* Make the beds big enough to function efficiently.
* Mulch generously with compost and/or gravel.
* Pick the right plants for your site.

Though simple, these key points require some explanation. For example, mounded beds are not the same as raised bin-beds with wooden or plastic sides. They are just what they sound like; mounds of good garden soil. Mounded beds don’t need to be any higher than 18 inches, but may be as much as 2-3 feet high in areas where varied topography would be appropriate.

Bed Building

Making beds big enough is partly a matter of efficiency and partly a matter of scale. Even in a small garden, build beds as boldly as possible, so the landscape works with the scale of the surrounding home and neighborhood or woods. Think big and think simple; strong shapes and clean lines will always read better than little ditsy beds that make a garden look like a miniature golf course.

How big is big? Depending on the size of your property, beds may be any width from 4 feet to 40 feet. Little strip beds rarely function well (and look well even less often), so the length should be similarly bold. If you are adding large rocks to your landscape, the mounded beds should be scaled with appropriate generosity. Where there isn’t room for beds this size, pave or gravel the area and use big, abundantly filled containers instead.

Let The Soil Breathe

Mounding the beds offers plant roots breathing room and prevents winter rots, especially on heavy clay soils. For optimal results, think in terms of cubic yards of topsoil and compost, not a few little bags. Look for topsoil mixes that combine sandy loam, compost, and clay-based soil. In the Seattle area,  I recommend Cedar Grove’s vegetable garden mixture, which works very well for mounded beds.

Mulching with blankets of organic material makes plants less vulnerable to fluctuations of temperature and drought. In most cases, an annual 2-4 inch mulch of mature compost is enough to keep weeds down, keep moisture in, feed soil, and look attractive. In the dry garden, drought tolerant plants are planted and mulched with mature compost, and are often top mulched with crushed gravel.

Going With Gravel

Gravel mulch pleases many drought loving Mediterranean plants, from lavender and rosemary to grapes. Though we don’t think of grapes as drought loving, in the Loire valley of France, the grapevines in the famous vineyards are mulched with the local honey-colored stone and never watered. Indeed, vintners are disallowed the use of their appellation if they are caught watering the vines; the result won’t be true to type.

Similarly, French lavender and Italian tomatoes are grown with very little water, especially as they begin to ripen flowers and fruit. Excess water reduces the quality of the essential oils in herbs and makes tomatoes flabby and bland. If you decide to experiment with gravel mulches, always use crushed gravel. Neither rounded pea gravel nor river rock will function properly as plant mulch. In most cases, a top mulch of gravel will be an inch or two deep, but in some cases (as with the grapes), stone chip or gravel mulches may be 3-4 inches deep.

Recognizing Watering Needs

To choose the right plants for your site, identify what kind of site you have. The primary question to ask is whether the site is sunny or shady. Most dry garden models are for sun loving plants in sites with plenty of light, but shady dry gardens are also possible. (I’ll write more about this soon.) When choosing plants, consider that as long as your garden soil is well amended with compost, many ordinary garden plants, from shrubs and perennials to grasses and vines, will flourish with very little water once they get established.

You will need to water youngsters regularly (probably weekly) for the first year or two, but they’ll need little or no water after that. There are exceptions of course–roses and clematis leap to mind–but a look at neglected neighborhoods shows clearly that many established plants can carry on without help for decades.

Learn When To Back Off

If you’ve been routinely over-watering your plants, they will have very shallow roots. This makes plants less resilient and highly susceptible to stresses of all kinds. The key to plant and garden sustainability is good root growth. To encourage deeper root growth, mulch generously with compost, and do it during the wet season, while the soil is still damp.

Next, adjust your irrigation habits. If you are in the habit of watering daily, that’s important for container plantings, but for gardens and lawns, switch to weekly watering (delivering about an inch at a time). Some irrigation companies tell customers to irrigate lawns twice a day. This is just plain wrong. To encourage your lawn to grow deeper, healthier roots, rake in about half an inch of compost each autumn and early spring and irrigate no more than once a week. As your turf gains better roots, it will also gain resilience to the pests and diseases that plague over watered lawns.

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Catnip vs DEET: No Contest

Simple Garden Solutions For Summer Stings

Our daily deer visits have been made a bit more exciting by daily coyote sitings, possibly not unrelated. In any case, we are now hosting a limping faun, still spotted and tiny but seemingly sturdy despite the bad leg, as well as its mama and assorted kin. We’ve all been holding our breath, hoping not to see any gory culture clashes, but so far, the deer have managed to evade the coyotes. It does seem a little ironic to be supplying fresh water to the very creatures that have been relentlessly ravaging my garden, but then, it’s hot, it’s dry, and what else is there for the poor critters to eat?

So that’s a bit of a sting, but the other kind are proving far more bothersome. Since the summer is so hot and dry, I’ve been surprised to find (or be found by) so many mosquitoes of an evening, until I finally figured out that they are finding breeding pools in the deep saucers that hold my large container plantings. Given that the saucers are keeping my crops from frying in the summer heat, I guess I’ll accept the mosquitoes as part of the bargain. However, I’m more accepting than I might be because I grew so much catnip this year.

A Better, Brighter Catnip

If that sounds like a non sequitur, read on. While most of my garden is on my extensive deck, I finally planted a real one this spring, despite the deer. To keep them from feeding too heavily, I planted a wide range of less-preferred perennials and shrubs, interlaced with lots of annuals that have never (in my experience so far) been deer fodder. Along with the usual zinnias and marigolds, I planted several dozen catnip plants. Rather than the usual drab, sad-looking plants, my catnips are strapping, colorful creatures called Cat’s Meow, a selected form from Holland that is larger, brighter, and far more floriferous than the straight species.

Indeed, my Meow plants stretch nearly 3 feet high and some are 5 feet across. They are growing in mounded sandy loam top dressed with fish compost, a combination that makes all the herbs in the new garden very contented. Indeed, pretty much everything I planted is proving to be much happier in sandy loam than they ever were in my heavy clay soil. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a homely cousin of ornamental catmint (Nepeta faassenii or N. mussinii), the classic English border edge plant. It’s generally grown as a cat-pleasing or medicinal tea herb, and rightly so, since its dusty grey-green foliage certainly makes our cats happy, but it also seems rather deer repellant, which is a very pleasant bonus.

And Bite-Reducing

Best of all, the foliage can be made into concoctions that repel mosquitoes as well as deer. Nearly a decade back, researchers at Iowa State University were looking for safer alternatives to DEET. Currently the most common active ingredient in commercial mosquito and bug repellents, DEET is also a dangerous chemical for humans, especially children. A study carried out at the Duke University Medical Center revealed that DEET can cause brain cell death and may trigger behavioral changes indicative of neurological damage in rats after frequent or prolonged use.

During their search, the ISU team investigated several plant essential oils commonly used as insect repellents by organic gardeners. The most promising substance turned out to be an essential oil found in catnip that is ten times more effective at repelling mosquitoes than DEET and its fellow toxic chemical repellants. A few years later, the ISU Research Foundation applied for a patent for the use of catnip essential oils and compounds. Today, you can buy a range of commercial bug-off products that are catnip oil based, but you can also make your very own. Here are a couple of recipes I’ve been using for the past few years. Both do a fine job of keeping mosquitoes and no-see-um’s at bay during our warm summer evenings.

Catnip Mosquito Spritz

2 cups catnip, stemmed
3-4 cups unflavored rice vinegar

Rinse herbs, roll lightly with a rolling pin, then place them in a clean quart jar and cover with vinegar. Seal jar and store in a dim cupboard for two weeks. Shake jar lightly every day or so for two weeks. Strain into a clean jar, seal and refrigerate unused for up to 6 months. To use, spritz on exposed skin and around outdoor dining area. Makes about 3 cups.

Catnip and Rosemary Mosquito Chasing Oil

2 cups catnip, stemmed
1 cup rosemary, cut in 6″ sprigs
2 cups grape seed oil or any light body care oil

Roll herbs lightly with a rolling pin and pack into a clean jar. Cover with oil, seal jar and place in a cool, dark cupboard for two weeks. Shake jar lightly every day or so for two weeks. Strain into a clean jar, seal and refrigerate unused for up to 8 months. To use, rub on exposed skin. Makes about 2 cups.

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Hot Tips and Gardening Tricks

Home And Garden Cures For This And That

I recently had a sizzling experience with a red hot pepper. Happily, it’ happened before and I knew just what to do. The first time I got chili burn, it took over a painful hour to figure out what to do about it. I had no idea back then, since for many years, I had harvested, canned, sliced, diced, and seeded chili peppers without a problem. Ironically, I always told readers of my various columns to use gloves when they handle chilies, though I almost never did that myself. I bet you can guess where I am headed here.

A friend recently gave us some lovely fresh chilies which I happily used in a stir fry and a salad dressing. Then I made a bean dish with yet another chile which tasted hotter than usual. As we ate, I noticed that my hand felt like it was burning. I assumed I had picked up a hot dish without paying attention. As the evening wore on, my hand felt worse. I tried every burn remedy in the house without relief. I stuck my hand in ice water. I bathed it in milk. I rubbed it with aloes. Nada. Finally I noticed that my hand was not tender, as it would have been with a real burn. Oh. Right. Hmm. I had handled that chili pepper without gloves. Shame on me.

Help…Maybe

In the mean time, the burning sensation was making me crazy. In desperation, I went online and found a chat thread called “How Can I Stop My Hand From Burning?’ Clearly, many people do this same dumb thing. Some folks were in pain for 8-12 hours or more. Many offered pain-stopping suggestions, but most sounded silly or even unsafe.

However, one gal had called poison control and learned that the intense pain of chili “burn” is an allergic reaction. Sure enough, the over-the-counter allergy remedy I often use took the burning feeling away quickly and it did not return. Ahhhh. Just the same, I bought a box of non-latex gloves. Even thought I now know how to handle the pain of chili burn, I never want to go through that experience again and hope you don’t ever have to!

Pollen Free Lilies Bloom Longer

I recently had a question about lily pollen, which stains indelibly if it gets wet. To avoid stains, remove lily stamens as soon as each blossom opens. With cut flowers for indoor use, do this as soon as possible to keep everybody’s skin and clothing clean. If you cut off the stamens while the blossoms are still on the living stem, the flowers will last a lot longer, since they will never get pollinated. That’s because as soon as they are fully pollinated (which takes a few visits from a bee or whatever), flowers begin to work on forming seeds and their bright petals fade as the hormones shift.

If you have ever gotten lily pollen on clothing, you know it is very hard to get the stain out. Silk and other natural fibers can be ruined because lily pollen stains are so intractable. After making a beautiful arrangement of autumn lilies and hydrangeas, a friend found lily pollen on the sleeve of her favorite shirt. Happily, I was able to get rid of the pollen without a trace.

Got It Taped

The trick? Plain, ordinary cellophane tape removes pollen with ease. The trick is to use the tape quickly. Don’t wet the stain with any thing at all (even water sets lily pollen stains permanently). Instead, take a piece of tape and gently press it lightly to the stain. Pull off the tape and the pollen lifts off completely. It may take a few pieces of tape, but keep at it until the stain is gone. For ground-in but still dry pollen, press down on the tape and rub it gently before removing. Keep using fresh pieces of tape until they come off clean before washing the garment.

And here’s another cool trick; you can remove slug slime with rose foliage. I recently got slug slime on the knee of my jeans (never mind how) and even a hot water wash cycle couldn’t remove it. I hate that slime-crusted feel and remembered with the rose leaf trick with relief. Just rub hands, clothing, or tools with crushed fresh rose leaves and slug slime comes right off.

In For A Penny  

Want one more? If you get stung by a bee or wasp, tape a penny to each sting site. Within about 15 minutes, the copper counteracts the sting venom and the pain and swelling will disappear. Wouldn’t it be lovely if all problems were so easily solved?

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Best Ever Garden Pie

Serves At Least One

I often make vegetable pies, using various ingredients depending on the season and what the garden has to offer. High summer pies are lighter and fresher tasting than the rich, toasty pies of winter, but this one, my new favorite, seems to capture the best of both sides of the year. It may seem like a lot of work but it really isn’t, and the result is so amazingly toothsome you won’t grudge a minute of the half-hour or so of prep (cooking time doesn’t count as work in my world). Depending on your choices, it can be vegetarian, vegan, and/or gluten free, and any way you slice it, it will make a memorable meal!

The roasted cauliflower adds a distinctive texture, especially if you roast the florets until they are truly well-browned, crisp and chewy. If you can stop yourself from eating the whole batch, you’ll be delighted with the way they change up the pie from ho-hum to oh-my. The fresh corn also comes as a sweet surprise, bright and unexpected, while the mushrooms create that deep, solid  base that vegetarian dishes often lack.

Remarkable Vegetables Taste…Remarkable!

I used yellow Carola potatoes, a German hybrid that shines any way you use it, whether boiled, baked, hashed or mashed. Carolas are excellent keepers, retaining their crisp texture and full flavor for months after harvest. My best carrots this year are Mokum, which stay sweet and crisp despite the intense summer heat we’ve had. I use a lot as youngsters in salads, but they can eventually get very long, though they remain slender and crisp even as hulking 2-footers. My red peppers are Italian Sweets, long, meaty creatures that grill beautifully and crunchy and peppery-sweet raw and meltingly velvety when roasted.

Oh My Garden Pie

2 tablespoons avocado or olive oil
1 head cauliflower, cut in small florets
1 teaspoon sea salt
3 small carrots, thinly sliced (about 1-1/2 cups)
3 medium potatoes, chopped (about 3 cups)
3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1/4 teaspoon smoked hot paprika (or any)
12 large mushrooms, chopped (about 4 cups)
1 red sweet pepper, chopped
kernels cut from 1 ear sweet corn
1/4 cup wholewheat pastry flour **
1 pie crust (vegan if desired)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Rub a rimmed baking sheet with 1 tablespoon oil, add cauliflower and toss gently to coat. Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and roast at 400 degrees F until lightly caramelized (30-40 minutes). Meanwhile, put carrots, potatoes and 1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic in a pot with water just to cover, bring to a boil reduce heat to medium and cook until fork-tender (12-15 minutes). Drain, reserving cooking liquid, and set aside. In a soup pot, heat remaining oil over medium high heat, add onion, 1/8 teaspoon salt, smoked paprika, and remaining garlic and cook, stirring, until soft (3-4 minutes). Add mushrooms, sprinkle with remaining salt, cover pan and cook until mushrooms have reduced in volume by about half (10-15 minutes). Stir in red pepper and corn, cover and cook for 2 minutes. Sprinkle with flour, stir to coat and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in 2-3 cups reserved carrot cooking water to make a thick gravy, reduce heat to low. When cauliflower is done, gently stir it into the vegetables and spoon mixture into a deep pie dish. Cover with crust, flute edges, and slash crust to release steam. Bake at 350 degrees F until crust is golden and crisp (40-50 minutes). Serves 4-6.

** Gluten Free Thickeners

For a gluten free version, obviously you will be using a gluten-free pie crust. For the thickening agent, substitute one of the following for the wholewheat pastry flour. The usual gluten-free thickeners include organic cornstarch (no GMO, thanks all the same), arrowroot powder, potato starch, and tapioca flour. The first two work fine for making gravies and sauces and in both cases, you blend the dry thickener with an equal amount of cold water, then slowly drizzle the mixture into the warm liquid you are thickening, stirring all the while. Cornstarch will taste raw unless cooked for 2-3 minutes in a gravy or sauce, and it will reheat a lot better than arrowroot, which tends to lose its staying power if re- or overheated. For a savory pie that will be baked after the thickener has been added to the gravy, either potato starch or tapioca flour will be the most stable. For lumpless results, blend either one into a slurry with cold liquid before adding it to the warm liquid you want to thicken.

1 tablespoon cornstarch thickens 1-1/2 to 2 cups liquid
2-3 teaspoons arrowroot thickens 1 cup liquid
1 tablespoon potato starch thickens 1-1/2 to 2 cups of liquid
2 tablespoons tapioca flour thickens 1 cup liquid

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