Savoring With Several Senses

Fruit blossoms are sweet smelling and tasty

Fragrant & Edible Flowers

I recently saw a wonderful old cookbook from pioneer days that was all about edible flowers. Those hard working women may have been living in cabins with dirt floors, but they still wanted to serve their friends lovely tea party treats. I paged gently through the crumbling old book, enchanted by the elegant etchings and charmed to see how many old fashioned garden favorites had made their way West with the wagons. Alyssum and calendula, roses and violets, all were discussed in curly copperplate; there was page after page of heritage forms now eagerly sought by avid hortheads like me.

My own garden holds many of the same fragrant, edible flowers that trimmed those long-ago cakes. These days, florally decorated food is as trendy as ever, but the wise cook will do a little research before covering a cake or garnishing a salad with garden gleanings. For one thing, glossy magazines and cookbooks are not always your best guide to which flowers are safe to eat and which can cause serious illness. I’ll never forget the gorgeous photo showing a deadly toxic angel’s trumpet (Datura or Brugmansia) blossom spilling over with a tumble of fruit salad. Pretty, but, yikes! Bad, bad idea. I’ve also seen lovely cakes topped with baby daffodils and lily-of-the-valley, both toxic enough to send an incautious nibbler to the bathroom if not the ER.

A Little Homework

These days, publishers are more savvy (and readers perhaps more litigious), but it’s still worth taking time to check up on toxicity before mingling plants and food. Though some flowers are not dangerously toxic for most people, if eaten, they can cause irritation even in the less-sensitive. Thus, when you see a purple calla lily loaded with rosy shrimp salad in a lush photo spread, do try the recipe but use a non-toxic daylily instead (stamens removed first).

All cautions observed, quite a number of common vegetable bed and ornamental border flowers are lovely to look at and tasty to boot. Which flowers are the safest for kitchen play? For starters, please remember that no flower is safe to eat unless it has been organically grown. This means that NO chemical herbicides or pesticides have been used on or around the entire plant. Rose fertilizers that contain systemic toxins are included in this category, as are any fertilizers of the weed-and-feed variety. This usually rules out store bought flowers, most of which have been drenched in pesticides (especially if flown in from other countries). This also means that edible flowers on plants that were brought home from nurseries and garden centers are not safe to eat unless they have been grown organically or sustainably (without toxins). Fortunately, it’s easy to grow your own edible annuals from seed, from calendulas to pansies and violets.

Always Remove Pollen

In addition, for some people, eating pollen can trigger allergies or even asthma. To be safe, remove the pollen bearing parts of each edible flower (the pistils and stamens). The sepals or calyx should also be removed from all flowers except the viola/violet clan (pansies, Johnny-Jump-Ups, violets and violettas). To make edible flowers safer still, gently immerse them in tepid water for a few minutes. Loosely wrap them in a tea towel, place them in a salad spinner and give them a whirl. Flowers that won’t be used right away can be stored, still loosely wrapped in the towel, in the vegetable crisper drawer in the refrigerator for up to a day.

Grow Your Own

Here are a few of my own favorite edible flowers, all easily grown and either long lived or apt to self-sow. Most will be equally popular with pollinators, from bumble bees to hummingbirds.

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
This pollinator favorite is also called licorice mint for the mild, spicy flavor of both the foliage and the tubular blossoms. Both can be used as a scented, flavorful garnish for all sorts of dishes, from lemonade to poached salmon to green or fruity salads.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
In the cool Northwest, calendulas bloom through the year. Use the petals, fresh or dried, to add a gentle bite to soups and salads. Well chopped, the petals add color and flavor to rice dishes (much like saffron). Feed flowers to chickens for deep golden egg yolks.

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
Honey-scented chive blossoms have a decidedly oniony flavor that adds snap to soups, sandwich spreads, and salads. Break up the clustered blossoms and scatter individual florets over rice or pasta dishes for garnish.

Daylily (Hemerocallis species)
Common in Chinese cookery, fresh daylily blossoms or dried buds can be used year round. Buds are eaten just before they open, when in full color, and taste rather like green beans. Open, they taste mildly sweet; fill pink daylily flowers with colorful melon balls or stuff yellow daylilies to make elegant, individual pesto potato salads.

Mint (Mentha species)
Add fuzzy blue mint flowers to lemonade or fruit salad and use them to garnish chocolate ice cream treats. They also work well in curries, rice dishes, and green salads or with steamed vegetables. The leaves of many kinds of mint are decorative and tasty too.

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Lovely in salads, nasturtiums can also be used to garnish salmon or chicken dishes. Slightly astringent and peppery, nasturtium flowers work best in savory dishes. Layer slabs of tomatoes and fresh mozzarella cheese, drizzle with balsamic vinegar and garnish with golden nasturtiums.

Pansy (Viola x wittrockiana)
Velvety pansies are for thoughts, so use them to tell dear ones that you think about them often. The petals have a soft, minty flavor that lends itself to sweet or savory dishes. Use them to trim tortes, to garnish herbed tuna, or tossed into a quick curry.

Rose (Rosa species)
Sweet and fragrant rose petals are an elegant garnish for game hens or fish. Rosa officinalis, the apothecary rose, is one of the nicest, but almost any fragrant rose will taste sweet. Sumptuous in summery salads, rose petals can also grace any and all kinds of desserts.

Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Try sliding some culinary sage flowers under the skin of turkey or chicken, along with a few sprigs of rosemary. The flowers have a warm, herby flavor with a hint of heat. Toss orange slices and fennel with sage flowers and slivered sage leaves.

Signet or Threadleaf Marigold (Tagetes signata
or T. tenuifolia)
Spicy, lemon-scented signet marigolds are tastier than most of their kin. The flavor is somewhat like tarragon. Try the petals in carrot and orange salad, mash some into deviled eggs, or sprinkle petals over potato soup.

Squash Blossom (Cucurbita species)
Toss these pretty flowers into stews, fry them in fritters, or stuff them with herbed goat cheese. The flower flavor is gently green. New tips of young shoots often taste slightly salty and crunchy, so use those, too.

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Living Perfumes

Weaving Garden Fragrances

Many years ago, I wrote a book called Fragrance In Bloom, love child of my life-long fascination with floral scents. I was probably (ok, definitely) an odd kid, because I appreciated all kinds of aromas, not just roses and lilies. I loved sniffing plants and found those with complex odors as intriguing as those with straight up sweet ones. I’m still a scent hound, noticing the little shifts of smells at every turn on my daily walks. Right now, my neighborhood is rich with the mingled scents of fallen fruit and turning leaves. As I stroll around the block, the warm, light scent of ripening figs blends with late roses and the last of the summer phlox. The tumbling hearts of browning katsura leave have a milky, caramel perfume that’s echoed in the plump mahogany fruits of Himalayan honeysuckle (Leycesteria formosa), which smell and taste exactly like slightly scorched homemade butterscotch.

In my garden right now, as the strawberry foliage flames red, it releases the sugary scent of summer berries. As I weed between the pots and troughs, I could tell where I am even if blindfolded, since fennel and thyme, rosemary and sage release their distinctive odors even before I brush against them. That sense of place is a lot less challenging in this new tiny yard, where nothing is more than a few feet from anything else. Still, even in such tight quarters, it’s rewarding to arrange sequences of scent by partnering fragrant flowers and brisk foliage, whether buttery gardenias with spicy santolina or heady flowering tobacco with the warm bite of rosemary.

Listening With The Nose

For many of us, designing garden vignettes is all about contrasts of color, texture and form; those are indeed key principles, but adding in the fragrance factor makes any design more memorable. Some very charming gardens are made as much to be fragrant as beautiful; I’ve worked on such gardens for kids as well as for blind or color blind people. Creating symphonies of scent can be a sophisticated undertaking or as simple as edging a path with favorite herbs and flowers. Fragrance gardening is also a very fun way to get kids involved, especially of many of the scented things are edible (it’s definitely way more fun than weeding).

To help get kids started on a perfumed path of their own, I explain that people can learn to “listen” with their noses; that’s just weird enough to get their attention and we can go on to explore the garden with eyes almost closed, following the scent trails. Done at various times of day and night, our noses will lead us to some surprising sources of delicate or potent perfumes. On an early summer morning, we may be greeted by the intensely green smell of dew-spangled lawn, the mild fragrance of opening daylilies, the mellow scent of spearmint touched by trailing fingers. Midday brings out the powerful perfumes of roses and mignonette as well as the sharper odors of pungent santolina or aromatic lavender. Evening-scented stocks and tobaccos arrive with twilight and linger long into the night.

Living Into The Mystery

It shouldn’t be too surprising to learn that humans experience
smells in vastly different ways. Some people love the musty sweetness of privet, while for others it is an annoying allergen. The bitter, biting aroma of chrysanthemums or nasturtiums may be attractive to me, yet repellent to you. The smell of sweet violets might seem swooningly romantic or remind us of cheap perfume. Before making a fragrance garden, it’s vital to explore and chart your personal palette of pleasing smells. Clearly, the best way to go about this is to grow as many plants that are notably fragrant as possible, cherishing our favorites and eliminating those we find distasteful.

Unfortunately, merely cramming in a profusion of aromatic plants can create an overwhelming barrage of smells that can clash or cancel each other out. (Ask me how I know….) To find a fragrant mixture that makes us happy, we have to play around a little. One way to do this is to make small bouquets or tussie-mussies, layering the herbal with the floral, mixing and matching until you develop a clear sense of what floats your boat. Notice how various scents make you feel or what they spark in your memories: Generally speaking, gentle herbal scents encourage stressed bodies to relax. Bracingly aromatic odors invigorate dull moods. Certain perfumes unfailingly entice us to abandon ourselves to enjoyment, while others seem exhilarating or fascinatingly mysterious. Fragrance gardening is per force a deeply personal enterprise because you and your nose are unique.

Winter Wondering

Winter is a great time to get started with the exploration into fragrance mixing, since there is less competition from lush summer bloomers. Next time you’re at a garden center, take an extra moment to smell every plant that catches your attention. Bring home everything you enjoy (always a good idea) and play around with placement. Start partnering in twos and threes, noticing how a sweet scent is emphasized by a richer, or sharper, or more pungent one. This works indoors too, as anyone who gets fascinated by scented geraniums can attest. Just thinking about the many, many delightful plants that are waiting to meet and mingle makes me smile. Bees and other pollinators will also be overjoyed to share your pleasure in perfumed plants. Onward, right?

 

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Bread of Life

My Daily Bread

When times are tough, I bake bread. When grief and sorrow keep me awake, I get up and make bread. When outrage and fury send my blood pressure skywards, I make bread. Oh, and knit. But really, the act of making and baking bread, this most basic and noble of foods, is comforting both in the process and in the finished products. It’s also joyful, so when wonderful things are happening, bread is very apt to happen as well. The ancient mystery of water and flour, yeast domestic or wild, never fails to enchant us with its compelling fragrance and its deeply satisfying flavors.

Foolproof and delicious, this sturdy bread I offer below has evolved over the years and is now a family staple. I bake several times a week, keeping my extended family in sandwich loaves and cinnamon or savory rolls. Fresh, it makes great sandwiches and toast as well as French toast; stale, it’s wonderful in bread pudding and savory stuffings. It’s a very easy recipe and never fails as long as you use a timer for each step.

Playful and Imaginative

My grandkids love to play with the dough, forming dragon bread, bread people, cats, spooky ghosts and unicorns. I set them up with a rimmed baking sheet filled with heaps of flour, add blobs of dough and let them do whatever they like. The sensory play with dough and flour keeps them calm and happy for a surprisingly long time and though the dough needs very little working, it withstands an amazing amount of playful manipulation without getting tough. Like a wholesome, edible form of play dough, bread can be made into almost anything, nourishing both body and spirit. This always feels like natural magic at its best.

Daily Oatmeal Bread

Makes 2 loaves

Timing is important for consistency so I use a timer for each step. This all-purpose bread is excellent toasted and makes wonderful French toast as well as sandwiches, bread pudding, stuffing, etc.

Oatmeal Bread

1 cup old fashioned rolled oats (not quick-cooking)
2 tablespoons butter or avocado oil
2-3 tablespoons molasses
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
2-1/4 teaspoons or 1 packet dry yeast
5-6 cups bread flour (more or less)
2 oiled or buttered bread pans

In a large bowl, combine oats, butter, molasses and salt with 2-1/2 cups boiling water. Cover bowl with a plate and let stand for 30 minutes. (If house is cool, place in oven with oven light on.) Stir well, sprinkle yeast on top and let stand for 15 minutes in warm place. Stir in 3-4 cups flour to make a soft dough, cover bowl and let rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Divide dough in half and knead each piece, adding flour as needed to make a smooth ball (though it rises well even if you only knead for a minute, I usually knead 100 “turns” per loaf, taking about 2-3 minutes). Place in prepared loaf pans, slash tops 3 times and let rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F, put loaves in and bake for 40 minutes. Internal temperature should be 180 degrees F or greater. Cool on a rack for 10-15 minutes before removing loaves from pans. Makes 2 loaves.

Tart Cherry Cinnamon Rolls

1 tablespoon avocado or vegetable oil
1 cup unbleached flour
1/2 batch oatmeal bread (see above)
2-3 tablespoons cinnamon sugar *
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
2/3 cup dried tart cherries (or raisons, currants, etc)
1/2 cup chopped nuts (optional)

Lightly oil an 8-9 inch square glass baking pan, set aside. Sprinkle some flour on a rimmed baking sheet and pat out dough into a long snake, adding flour as needed to keep it from sticking. Flatten the snake into a 3-4 inch wide strip and rub with remaining oil, leaving bottom half-inch un-oiled. Sprinkle on cinnamon sugar and brown sugar and rub lightly to incorporate oil. Dot on dried fruit and nuts if using and roll up, pressing gently to seal un-oiled section of dough to the top of the roll. Slice into 1-1/2 or 2-inch section and place, cut side down, in the oiled baking pan. Let rise for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F and bake for 20-25 minutes (less if you like soft, puffy rolls, longer if you like them firmer). Makes 12-16 rolls. Freeze extras for up to three months and reheat before serving.

* Cinnamon Sugar

For plain cinnamon sugar, eliminate the other spices or add favorites of your own to taste.

Cinnamon Spice Sugar

1/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon coriander (optional)
1/4 teaspoon cardamom (optional)

Combine in a jar, cover and shake well to blend. Store in a tightly sealed jar (I use little spice bottles with shaker-top inserts).

Garlic Butter & Cheese Rolls

There are many ways to make savory versions but this is one of our favorites. Vary by flavoring with a little smoked paprika, chili powder, an Italian herb blend, or minced fresh herbs. You can change up the garlic butter as well (see below) by adding fresh herbs, snipped chives, or minced sweet onions.

Savory Dinner Rolls

1 teaspoon avocado or vegetable oil
1 cup unbleached flour
1/2 batch oatmeal bread (see above)
3-4 tablespoons Garlic Butter **
1 cup grated hard cheese (Romano or Pecorino)

Lightly oil an 8-9 inch square glass baking pan, set aside. Sprinkle some flour on a rimmed baking sheet and pat out dough into a long snake, adding flour as needed to keep it from sticking. Flatten the snake into a 3-4 inch wide strip and spread with softened garlic butter, leaving bottom half-inch un-buttered. Sprinkle on grated cheese and roll up dough, pressing gently to seal un-buttered section of dough to the top of the roll. Slice into 1-1/2 or 2-inch section and place, cut side down, in the oiled baking pan. Let rise for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F and bake for 20-25 minutes (less if you like soft, puffy rolls, longer if you like them firmer). Makes 12-16 rolls. Freeze extras for up to three months and reheat before serving.

** Garlic Butter

1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic
1/8 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

In a shallow bowl, mash butter with a fork, then blend in garlic and salt. Store covered in the refrigerator for up to three days.

Best Ever Bread Pudding

This is a family favorite breakfast, warm and fragrant with spiced sugar. We like to add a few chocolate chips but it’s also great with a bottom layer of raspberry jam.

4-6 cups stale oatmeal bread in 1/2 inch cubes
1/4 cup tiny chocolate chips (optional)
5-6 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
5-6 cups whole milk
1-2 teaspoons spiced sugar (see above)

Place cubed bread in an 8-9 inch square glass baking pan, sprinkle with chips if using, set aside. In a bowl, beat eggs until foamy. Add sugar and vanilla and stir until sugar is dissolved. Stir in milk and pour over bread cubes, pushing gently to coat them with the milk. Cover pan and refrigerate overnight. Bake at 350 degrees F for an hour or until well puffed and golden. Makes 6-8 servings.

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Green Tomatoes Galore

Midnight Snack Cherry tomatoes still taste fabulous

Summer Garden’s Last Gasp

Though the autumn days continue mild here, the nights are getting nippy. My lovely lemon tree has happily taken to life in my bathroom, where the fruit continues to fatten. While choosing a plump yellow lemon for our tea, my three-year-old granddaughter said, “Granny, you even have a garden in your bathtub!” Why not? Being surrounded by plants, indoors and out, is definitely good for human beings. My cat also appreciates the indoor greenery and enjoys sitting in the midst of the plants that line the tub. All are non-toxic for cats, including a number of spider plants grown especially for kitty noshing.

Outside, the heat lovers finally gave up the ghost and the kiddos and I made our final harvest of peppers, eggplants, and tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes! After roasting several batches of red and/or green tomatoes, making green tomato chutney, and having fried green tomatoes for dinner, there were still enough for a couple more dishes. I decided to experiment with a pasta sauce and came up with something delicious that combines tangy-tart green tomatoes and meltingly rich caramelized onions. I used some butter, but if you prefer a vegan sauce, just use more oil and as always, adjust seasoning to your taste. The liquid can be whatever you prefer, including a splash of fruit vinegar diluted in water.

Pasta With Caramelized Onions & Green Tomatoes

1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons avocado or olive oil
3 large yellow onions, halved and sliced
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 cup water, broth or dry white wine
6-8 cups chopped green tomatoes
1-2 teaspoons fresh chopped rosemary
1 teaspoon capers, drained
few grinds pepper
1/4 cup slivered green onions

In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, combine butter and oil over medium heat. When butter melts (if using), add onions and 1/4 teaspoon salt and stir to coat. Cook slowly over medium low heat for 45-60 minutes, stirring every 10-15 minutes until onions turn golden, then stirring every few minutes as they continue to brown. Add liquid of choice, green tomatoes, rosemary and capers, stir well and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, cover pan and simmer until tomatoes are tender while pasta of your choice cooks. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve over hot pasta, garnished with slivered green onions. Makes about 4 cups. Freeze or refrigerate leftovers for up to three days.

Just A Little Bacon-Or Not

This savory end-of-summer pie combines red and green tomatoes with leeks and mushrooms in an open-topped tart. We’ve been delighting in an amazing bounty of chanterelles this year, but portobellos or field mushrooms will also work nicely. A little bacon makes the filling extra rich but the mushrooms provide plenty of umami if you aren’t a bacon fan.

Bacon, Chantrelle & Tomato Tart

1 sheet puff pastry or pie crust
1 tablespoon avocado or olive oil
4 slices bacon, chopped
3 leeks, thinly sliced (white and palest parts only)
1/8 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
4 cups sliced chanterelles or any mushroom
2 cups thickly sliced red tomatoes
2 cups thinly sliced green tomatoes

Spread puff pastry or pie crust on a rimmed baking sheet and brush lightly with oil, set aside. In a heavy bottomed pan, cook bacon over medium heat until barely crisp, then remove to a plate. Add oil and leeks to the bacon pan over medium high heat. Sprinkle leeks with salt and cook for three minutes. Add mushrooms, sprinkle with salt stir to coat and cook, covered, until barely soft (5-7 minutes). Remove mixture to a shallow bowl to cool and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. When mushroom mixture is close to room temperature, spread over center of puff pastry or crust, leaving several inches bare all around the filling. Layer on the tomatoes, sprinkle with bacon bits, fold up edges of pastry or crust to partly cover filling and bake at 400 degrees F until puffed and golden (about 20 minutes for puff pastry, about 30 minutes for pie crust). Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serves about 6.

Autumn Chutney

1 teaspoon each mustard seed and cardamom seed
2 cups chopped green tomatoes
2 cups chopped apples (firm)
2 cups chopped pears (firm)
1 yellow onion, chopped
1/2 cup golden raisins or dried currants
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
2 tablespoons chopped fresh, peeled ginger root
1 teaspoon each sea salt, cumin, coriander, ginger
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 cup cider vinegar
1 cup brown sugar

In a dry frying pan, roast seeds over high heat for a minute or until mustard seeds pop (use a spatter screen to keep them from flying away). In a soup pot, combine everything else and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add seeds, reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until fruit is translucent and sauce is thick (40-60 minutes). Pack into boiled canning jars and seal or refrigerate for up to 3 months. Let mellow for a week before using. Makes about 4 cups.

 

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