Herbal Oils And Vinegars

Posted on August 7, 2017 by Ann Lovejoy
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Garden To Kitchen: Beam Me In

In the Seattle area, the recent heatwave was sadly mellowed by a dense haze of smoke from Northern wildfires. On the worst days, you could taste the tang of burning trees at the back of your throat and eyes itched and burned in sympathy for the fallen. Grey skies and dry weather is not unusual for the maritime Northwest, but our grey summers are usually cool, not steamy like this one. Meanwhile, the gardens go on, the muted heat speedily ripening fruit and flowers and awakening essential oils in herbs, bringing them to full fragrant flavor.

This is a good time to harvest herbs for all sorts of uses, from oils and vinegars to simple syrups and seasoned salt blends, both culinary and for the bath. Tightly sealed in jars and stored in a dim, cool place, dried herbs keep their savor for months and can be stored in the freezer even longer. Right now I’m making herb-infused oils and vinegars of various kinds, some standard, others experimental. As always when playing about, I make small batches of anything I’m not sure about, keeping detailed notes so I can recreate the successes and avoid repeating the disasters. (That is, if I remember to check my notes before trying a seemingly grand notion yet again.)

Capturing Sunbeams

Herbs picked in high summer have almost shockingly vivid flavors, bright and lively, with over- and under-tones missing from dried ones. captured in oils and vinegars, these sunny, summery garden essences contribute sparkle to many dishes. Basil oil and lemon thyme vinegar make a memorable dressing for green, fruity, or pasta salads. A dash of rosemary-shallot oil gives steamed vegetables depth and finish. A drizzle of garlic-chile oil lends pizza pizzaz. Plain soup gains luster from a few drops of lemon-basil finishing oil, while vegetarian chili sings with a splash of jalapeno-oregano vinegar.

To bring out the richest flavors, oils infused with garlic, shallots, and fresh or dried herbs are oven baked until the added ingredients are brown and toasted. In order to evaporate moisture from the foliage or vegetables that could harbor harmful bacteria, heat oils in a non-reactive, wide-mouthed container such as a large glass measuring cup or a glass casserole dish. Once cooled and strained, the clear and deliciously scented oil may be stored in the refrigerator for up to three months. If an oil looks cloudy or displays a definite layer of clear and cloudy oils after straining, reheat it for 30-45 minutes and strain through cheesecloth or muslin again.

Slow Steeping

Similarly, various basic vinegars may be gently heated with spices, herbs, or vegetables such as chili peppers or garlic. (Always heat vinegar in a non-reactive saucepan made of stainless steel or enamel). After steeping for several days or even weeks, flavored vinegars are strained and rebottled in handsome containers for gifting or kitchen use. Pretty though they are, flavored oils and vinegars should be stored in the refrigerator, not a sunny window, since heat and light can cloud them and may promote bacterial growth. For safest use, always refrigerate homemade oils and vinegars after opening.

I find it entertaining to develop playful combinations of herbs and spices with fruit flower petals, spices and even toasted nuts and seeds. For instance, a flavorful oil or vinegar can be made by partnering pink, green, or black peppercorns with organic lemon, orange, lime or grapefruit zest. Try different base ingredients, giving preference to polyunsaturated oils with high smokepoints, such as buttery avocado and blander grapeseed. Mild and almost flavorless, American Heart Association favorite rice oil is an excellent carrier that emphasizes the taste and fragrance of your chosen additives.

Play Time

Now, this is the fun part. Assemble your backbone ingredients and a note book, then jump in and play. Try a little batch of whatever appeals most, perhaps infusing rice oil with rose petals, basil, and lemon rind, or calendula petals, rosemary, and toasted hazelnuts. Wow, right? Vinegars also have particular properties that make them suitable for various partnerings. Mellow apple cider vinegar works well with both herbs and spices, while red or white wine vinegars pair well with fruit, robust chili peppers, and garlic. Like its cousin oil, plain rice vinegar (not the kind made with salt and sugar) boosts delicate flavors without competing; try it with a split vanilla bean, rose petals, and toasted pink peppercorns, or lemon rind, dill, and chamomile petals.

Lemon Thyme & Basil Oil

1 cup safflower or canola oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon stemmed lemon thyme
2 teaspoons organic lemon zest (finely grated peel)

Place all ingredients in a glass 2-cup measure set into a baking pan. Bake at 300 degrees F for 40 minutes. Cool for 30 minutes, then strain through muslin or a coffee filter into a sterilized bottle and cover with a tight cap.

Rosemary Rose & Garlic Oil

1 cup avocado or olive oil
1/4 cup fresh rose petals
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed

Place all ingredients in a glass 2-cup measure placed in a baking pan. Bake at 300 degrees F for one hour. Cool for 30 minutes, then strain through muslin or a coffee filter into a sterilized bottle and cover with a tight cap. Refrigerate after opening.

Basic Herb Vinegar

2 cups apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs (such as basil, tarragon, lemon balm, parsley, cilantro, chives, dill, etc.)

Bring vinegar to a boil in a small saucepan. Roll fresh herbs lightly with a rolling pin and place in a sterilized jar. Pour in hot vinegar and cover tightly. Let infuse for up to 2 weeks, tasting every few days until you like the intensity. When it’s just right, strain through muslin or a paper coffee filter into a sterilized bottle and cover with a tight cap. Refrigerate after opening and use within 3 months.

Fruit Vinegars

If you like fruity salad dressings, try making some of your own and prepare to be amazed at the cleaner, fresher flavors you come up with. You can substitute many kinds of fruit, including other berries, peaches or nectarines, melons or citrus. Strain carefully through several layers of muslin or cheesecloth to remove as much pulp as possible; the result should be colorful but clear, not cloudy.

Raspberry Vinegar

1 cup fresh or frozen raspberries
2 cups red wine vinegar or cider vinegar
2 tablespoons cane sugar or honey

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, strain through two layers of muslin lining a fine sieve, pressing very gently to get all the liquid out. Pour into a sterilized bottle, cover with a tight cap and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

 

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Keeping Cool When The Heat Is On

Posted on July 31, 2017 by Ann Lovejoy
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Don’t Forget Water For The Birds And Beasties

This morning I got a text from my local NIXLE emergency notification system warning of approaching high temperatures. Since records were kept, temps have only hit 100 degrees F three times so far, but this week could see a fourth. Weather mavens are calling for a significant heat wave to sweep the maritime Northwest this week. Since we’re in a prolonged dry spell anyway (40 days without measurable rain so far), no doubt we’ve all been watering gardens is not lawns to keep our plants alive. However, record high heat can be very hard on plants and people as well as birds, critters, and even insects. Happily, with a little forethought, we can make a positive difference to those in each category.

While we’re outside helping plants and critters stay alive, it’s important to keep our own cool. Cover your head with a wet bandanna before putting on your broad-brimmed sunhat and your noggin will stay pleasantly cool for about an hour. Wrap crushed ice in a bandanna and tie it around your neck for even longer relief. When I did a lot of gardening for others, I’d keep an ice cooler in my car with zip bags of gloves, socks, and shirts so I could change into cool, dry clothing every few hours. (This works great at the beach too.) After you shower, hang your damp towel on a drying rack and let it cool off the air in an overly hot room as it dries. A wet sheet draped in front of a fan can do the same thing on a larger scale. At night, fill your hot water bottle with crushed ice and snuggle with it for a chilling experience. Tuck it down by your feet to keep them cool all night.

It Starts With Water

To keep birds, critters, and insects hydrated, keep bird baths full and change water out daily. Even if you’ve got your garden on a drip system, use an overhead sprinkler for at least a few minutes each morning to rinse off foliage and keep the dust down. The birds and bees will be delighted with the spray, which will quickly dry off when it’s seriously hot, so you don’t need to worry about creating conditions for mildew. And it’s wise to adjust your expectations; when temperatures soar, many plants will show clear signs of stress, some will go dormant and some will flat-out die. Water may well help struggling plants, but please don’t go overboard–too much can do as much harm as not enough. Plants that have gone dormant will return when they sense it is safe (probably when the autumn rains arrive). Water dormant plants now and they may well drown, since dormant plants can’t handle lots of water.

Then It’s All About Soil And Mulch

Most mature trees and shrubs will do fine, since well established plants can take drought and heat in stride. Plants that are not well established need care, but again, not too much too fast. In the long term, the best thing we can do for our plants is to heal and replenish the soil. One reason I keep talking about compost is that it holds water like a sponge. Soils with plenty of humus don’t dry out as fast, and they absorb water better when they do dry out. Once rehydrated, many plants will be convalescent. DO NOT feed them; this is like giving a giant steak dinner to a chemo patient. Instead, help them build up better root systems by feeding the soil they grow in.

Personally, when droughts arrive, I focus on keeping annual edibles alive. In addition, anything recently planted will need significant watering to stay alive. When temperatures hit the 80’s, plants with immature or compromised root systems may need five gallons of water a day. That takes quite a while, so either treat it as a water meditation and be super patient or run a low, slow hose for a good 15 minutes per plant (use a timer). Similarly, hanging baskets and color bowls that are in full sun might need to be watered both morning and night. In their case, though, a little hit of fertilizer will be in order, since so much water will definitely wash whatever food they had away. Always feed container plantings after watering to avoid burning tender roots!

Cool Treats For A Sizzling Summer

And of course, eating well is an important part of staying cool. I cook early in the morning (if at all) and focus on salads and fruit with yogurt during the day. Refreshingly tart-sweet, rich and creamy tasting, this vegan treat is a delightful palate cleanser between courses when friends gather for a summery banquet. It’s also yummy as a quick pick-me-up on a steamy afternoon. Freeze individual servings in small dishes or make an Avocado Ring With Raspberries & Blueberries: pack a whole batch into a bundt form and freeze, invert onto a serving dish, then fill the center with raspberries and blueberries and garnish with mint sprigs for a very pretty party dessert.

Vegan Avocado Ice

1 cup water
1/2 cup cane sugar
2 ripe avocados, peeled and chopped
2 organic limes, juiced, rind grated
pinch of sea salt

Boil water and sugar until sugar is completely dissolved, let cool to room temperature. Mash avocados with 2-3 tablespoons lime juice, a teaspoon of grated zest, and salt, add cooled syrup and blend very well (stir in more lime juice if desired). Freeze in an ice cream freezer and serve or pack into a glass container with a tight lid and freeze for up to three days. Makes about 3-1/2 cups.

 

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Simple Garden Syrups

Posted on July 24, 2017 by Ann Lovejoy
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Boiling Up Some Garden Bliss

As I write, I’m watching a dainty little doe nursing her long legged spotted fawn just a few feet from my window. Awww, right? So all my kale has turned into Bambi, so my roses and strawberries are pruned to the ground, so my hardy fuchsias are nibbled into weirdly tidy balls (primal topiary?). Baby deer are pretty sweet, gamboling about like lambs and frisking merrily among the container plantings. Sigh.

The only plants that haven’t been deer ravaged are the fragrant herbs, from rosemary, lavender, and chives to thyme and sage. I use fresh herbs daily, in everything from scrambled eggs and sandwiches to salads and stir fries but I also love to make savory herb salts and sweet herbal syrups. This week, I harvested a few rugged rugosa rosebuds from a battered bush that had once overflowed its huge tree pot. They smelled fantastic, so I decided to capture that sweetness in a simple syrup.

Saving Up Summer Goodness

Simple syrups are just that; extremely simple mixtures of cane sugar and water, boiled for a few minutes until the sugar is completely dissolved. Before electricity and freezers were common, most fruits were canned in simple syrups, which helped preserve their quality and flavor. Simple syrups can be flavored with all sorts of things, from vanilla beans and peppercorns to toasted fennel or coriander seeds. In summer, it’s delightful to capture the fleeting scents and tastes of herbs, flowers, and even fruit in such syrups. The primary rule here is to use only organically grown fruit, flowers, and foliage, as pesticide residues are definitely not edible.

Though syrup recipes abound, you may discover that your own preferences demand more or less of a given flavoring agent. Maybe you like a mint syrup that really zings, so you bump it up to two cups of leaves. Maybe you want a thyme syrup that whispers rather than shouts, so you knock it back to a few sprigs. That’s why it’s wise to work out your own recipes by starting with small batches and keeping good notes. Once you make a few, don’t be surprised if you get caught up in a creative fervor. Basil syrup! Cilantro! Spearmint! Meyer Lemon! Rose petal! Keep this mad invention under control, though; while some blends work well (lavender and rose petals, basil and lime), too many ingredients can make for a muddle. (Ask me how I know….)

Basic Simple Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water

Combine in a saucepan and boil for five minutes. Cool, store in tightly sealed glass jars and refrigerate until needed. Keeps indefinitely.

Garden Variations

Where shall we start? I love Rosemary syrup, which takes lemonade to new heights of refreshment and sophistication, adds a splash of vim to cocktails or ice tea, and tastes fabulous mixed into a watermelon and cantaloupe salad. While most forms of Rosmarinus officinalis taste similar, various kinds can have decidedly different flavors, so make a small batch with each to see which you find most appealing. I prefer Tuscan Blue for most culinary purposes, though Miss Jessup’s Upright, Spice Island, and Sudbury Blue all boast lovely fragrance and flavor as well.

Rosemary Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
1/3 cup leafy rosemary twigs (mainly young tips)

Combine sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, stir until sugar is dissolved, then simmer for five minutes. Add rosemary, remove pan from heat, cover pan and steep for 20 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth, cool and refrigerate in tightly sealed glass jars for up to a month. Makes about 2 cups.

Taking Thyme

Thyme is one of my favorite culinary herbs and I grow as many kinds as I can find. Try making this simple syrup with various kinds; my go-to is made with Lemon Thyme (Thymus x citriodorus), but most forms of Common Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) are also delicious. The only one I didn’t enjoy was a batch made with Caraway Thyme (T. herba-barona), but some people loved it in cocktails (!?). Drizzle a little over steamed green beans, add a bit to a basic vinaigrette, or mix with lemonade or fizzy water for a refreshing summer cooler.

Thyme Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
1/3 cup leafy thyme twigs (mainly young tips)

Combine sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, stir until sugar is dissolved, then simmer for five minutes. Add thyme, remove pan from heat, cover pan and steep for 15 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth, cool and refrigerate in tightly sealed glass jars for up to a month. Makes about 2 cups.

Spearmint Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
1 cup spearmint leaves

Combine sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, stir until sugar is dissolved, then simmer for five minutes. Add mint, remove pan from heat, cover pan and steep for 20 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth, cool and refrigerate in tightly sealed glass jars for up to a month. Makes about 2 cups.

Basil Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
1 cup Genovese basil leaves (or any kind you like)

Combine sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, stir until sugar is dissolved, then simmer for five minutes. Remove pan from heat, add basil, cover pan and steep for 20 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth, cool and refrigerate in tightly sealed glass jars for up to a month. Makes about 2 cups.

Capturing The Rose

Rose syrup is deliciously perfumed and tastes amazing in cocktails, fruit salads, or spooned over warm shortbread or ice cream. Stir a spoonful into lemonade or hot chocolate for a romantic moment, or add a tad to a plain vinaigrette, along with a handful of fragrant rose petals, to zip up a plain salad. Use rose petals of the same color for the prettiest syrup. If the flavor isn’t as bold as you’d like, add up to half a cup of food grade rose water (sold in shops that carry Middle Eastern foods).

Rose Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
2 cups rose petals (just opened from buds)

Combine sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, stir until sugar is dissolved, then simmer for five minutes. Remove pan from heat, add rose petals, cover pan and steep for 15 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth, cool and refrigerate in tightly sealed glass jars for up to a month. Makes about 2 cups.

Lavender Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
3 tablespoons lavender blossoms (opening buds are best)

Combine sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, stir until sugar is dissolved, then simmer for five minutes. Add lavender, remove pan from heat, cover pan and steep for 20 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth, cool and refrigerate in tightly sealed glass jars for up to a month. Makes about 2 cups.

Zesty Lemon Variations

Lemon syrups have a zillion uses and keep indefinitely if refrigerated. Meyer lemons have an especially floral fragrance, and the syrup they make is rather mellow. When I find big organic lemons in the market, I make simple syrup and add strips of lemon peel to the sugar water before continuing with the recipe below. Boil for five minutes, then dry the strips on a baking rack and pour the remaining syrup through cheesecloth to get the zest bits out. I even save those, because they’re delicious sprinkled on butter cookies or used as a garnish for desserts.

(Meyer) Lemon Syrup

1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
1 cup fresh lemon juice (about 8 organic lemons)
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
Lemon rind strips (optional)

Combine sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil (*), stir until sugar is dissolved, then simmer for five minutes. Remove from heat, add lemon juice and zest, cover pan and steep for 20 minutes. Strain through a double layer of cheesecloth, cool and refrigerate in tightly sealed glass jars for at least a month. Makes about 3 cups.

(*) This is where you do the bit with the strips.

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Jammin’ In The Kitchen

Posted on July 17, 2017 by Ann Lovejoy
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When Hestia Goes Astray

Over the past decade or so,I’ve gotten very fond of Hestia. For those who are not up to date on their Greek Pantheon, Hestia is the goddess of the hearth and home. She is in charge of homely things like cooking and all the domestic arts. The well being of the family is in her care, which is intriguing since she flatly refused to marry and bear children. Hestia’s also the inspirational spirit for architecture, and as the keeper of the flame, is also responsible for the State. That being so, I’m thinking she has her hands too full trying to straighten out the state of the State to spare me any kitchen time just now and let me tell you, I miss her!

Now, I love cooking, especially if I’m making something to share with others. Thinking of their pleasure in lovely food and working with beautiful, fresh ingredients puts me right in the zone. Creativity flows, ideas follow each other seamlessly, seasonings sing out happily to be included. I’m a process gal, and I enjoy chopping and slicing and mixing and blending and all the fussy little bits. Even when I’m making something fairly complicated, the process feels enticing and effortless. Usually. However, we all have days when we should really stick to tea and toast. If we don’t respect those natural down times, the result is apt to be memorable, and not in a good way. For example, here’s my latest recipe that I wouldn’t actually encourage any one else to try:

How To Make Raspberry Jam

Pick a day when you are tired, distracted, and already busy. Search large kitchen of rental house for all needed tools which you put away with creative imagination several months ago. Measure out sugar and mashed fruit, heat not quite enough jars and lids, dust off rather elderly packet of pectin. Umm, pectin doesn’t go bad, does it? Surely not. Bring fruit to boil, stir in pectin and boil as directed, get ready to fill jars. Discover sugar still sitting in it’s measuring cup on the counter. Oops. Add sugar in wrong order, cooling off the boiling mass instantly. Oops. Bring jam (possibly?) back to a boil, despite probably over-cooking the pectin. Result definitely looks odd.

Decide what the hell, and proceed with filling and sealing jars, discovering that you are short several lids. And jars. Find more of both and put in hot water as jam cools. Reheat jam (tastes fine, looks funny). Discover large lump of something (sugar? Pectin?) on bottom of jam pan. Stir it in anyway. What can possibly go wrong? Spill a good deal of hot jam when you drop ladle. Process filled jars in hot bath for ten minutes. Put jars on cooling rack, scalding yourself several times. Listen with satisfaction as they all seal promptly. Decide who amongst your acquaintance would be kindest about the result and make gift labels.

Don’t Stop Believing

Amazingly enough, after all this wrong doing, the jam came out better than good. Even the last jarful, the one that got the extra dollop of something, tastes great, lively and a little tart, with a pure, strong raspberry flavor. The odd look was apparently all about the foam, of which there was more than usual, but the finished product looks fine. If the set isn’t super firm, at least it’s not pourable syrup, as sometimes happens when bad things happen to fairly good people. If there is a point to all this, I guess it’s that perfection is not really a realistic goal, and thank goodness for that. If we don’t have to try to be perfect, we can focus instead of producing pleasurable, wholesome, healthy food that tastes great, for ourselves and others.

Before I go on to offer some reliable recipes I do want to point out that some commercial pectins do in fact expire, especially if stored in hot or damp conditions. Fortunately for me, I use Pomona, a vegan, gluten-free, no-GMO and citrus-based pectin that stays good indefinitely if the packet is intact. You can use it with cane sugar or maple syrup, stevia or concentrated fruit-based sweeteners with equally good results. Thus that aging packet still gave good results despite improper technique and lots of floundering. I like that in a food product, because no matter how fabulous a cook you might be, some floundering is bound to occur, and how pleasant it is to know that your family and friends won’t necessarily need to know about.

Peach Picking Time

Some fabulous peaches are available right now, with more on the way. Here are some delicious things to do with them that don’t require much fussing. To make things easier on yourself, remember that you can peel peaches easily if you dip them in boiling water for 20-30 seconds. Fish them out with a deep ladle and carefully peel them when cool enough to handle; the skin will slide off easily. You can also use nectarines, which don’t need peeling if you put them in chutney.

Peach & Pepper Chutney

2 large peaches, peeled and chopped
1 large red bell pepper, chopped
1 cup dried pitted tart cherries
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 tart apple, peeled, cored, and chopped
(Braeburn, Gala, or Jonathan are good)
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup golden raisins
2/3 cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons candied ginger, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon each: cinnamon, salt, and cardamon
1/8 teaspoon smoked paprika or cayenne pepper
4 hot 8-ounce canning jars, with rings and lids

In a large pot, combine first 9 ingredients with 1/2 cup water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer over low heat until slightly thickened (20-30 minutes). Add spices and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Spoon into hot jars, leaving at least 1/2 inch head room. Seal jars, then process in boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Let cure for 2-3 weeks and refrigerate after opening. Cooked chutneys keep for a long time when processed in canning jars, but should be refrigerated and used within 2 months after opening.

Preserve Or Conserve

Back in the day, chopped fruit put up in syrup was called preserves, while conserves usually involved whole or halved fruit. Conserves are generally less sweet than jam and feature larger pieces of fruit, often mixed with dried fruit and nuts. Often spicy or sweet-hot, they are used like chutney, as a condiment or partnered with soft cheese as an appetizer. Conserves are also lovely spooned over plain cake or ice cream or served in a baked pie shell.

Lemony Peach Preserves

4-5 ripe peaches, peeled, stone kernels reserved (optional)
3-4 cups sugar
2 organic lemons, juiced, rind grated, seeds saved

Chop peaches and measure. Crack the stones and reserve the inner kernels (optional). For each cup of peaches, measure into a saucepan:

3/4 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons water, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and 1 teaspoon lemon rind (and seeds).

Boil and stir this syrup for 5 minutes, then stir in fruit and cook at a low boil until almost transparent (6-8 minutes). If fruit is very juicy, add juice to syrup and boil hard for 3-5 minutes to reduce volume, then fish out any noticeable seeds (little ones vanish), add fruit, and proceed as above. Ladle into hot jars, adding a peach kernel to each jar for a lovely flavor. Allow flavors to meld for a week before serving (if you can resist).

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