Protecting The Earth With Benign Neglect

Nature Loves (Benign) Slobs

For decades now, I’ve been researching ways to help nurture flora and fauna as well as the planet. Increasingly it seems like many of the same things are devastating or beneficial to every living thing, from sequoias and and whales down to worms and soil dwelling bacteria. Not surprisingly, devastators include destructive logging, extractive mining, and soil degrading agricultural practices as well as the widespread use of toxic pesticides at work and at home. Basic beneficials include leaving nature environments alone and doing as little harm as possible. That includes using few or no pesticides, but it also includes being benign slobs.

Benign slobs don’t toss trash everywhere, but they also don’t keep homes and gardens or landscapes obsessively clean and tidy. Nature, as has often been observed, is not tidy in human terms. Generous, bold, abundant, inventive, and endlessly fecund, yes, but tidy, not so much. Thus, when we humans impose our ideas of beauty and order on the natural world, the natural world suffers.

Consider the Bee

To paraphrase Carl Jung, people do not change destructive habits and behaviors unless they hit bottom or fall in love. No sane person cheerfully looks forward to the bottom hitting bits, but falling in love is a more appealing prospect. On the premise that we are most apt to protect what we love and care about, it behooves us to learn all we can about our astonishing planet, because quite truly, to know it is to love it.

For the past few decades, numerous campaigns have been organized to try to save the bees. The result has been, if anything, an increase in bee loss for both native and imported species. There are many factors at play but it’s horribly obvious that too many of us prefer pesticides to pollinators. If you really want to help nurture bees, and butterflies, and birds, and all kinds of creatures, here’s the simplest way to go about it.

Allow A Little Wildness

Indoors and out, do not use pesticides, herbicides, weed-and-feed products, toxic pre-emergents, or even nasty household cleaners and hand ‘sterilizers’. Just don’t. Instead of attacking the problem you see, support the solution that will eliminate the problem. Build soil health, spread mulch deeply, and provide adequate water (but not too much) as needed. Choose plants that can thrive in your conditions and place them where they get the conditions they need.

Once the land you live on is not being poisoned, find a place, or a few places, where you can encourage a touch of the wild. Here you can create your pollinator habitat or sanctuary. Even a small spot will do; many small lives can be protected in very little space. Native plants are obvious choices for such places, but just growing natives is not quite enough. We must also steel ourselves to allow a little disarray. Mulch is fine, but letting native perennials and grasses (aka ‘weeds’) infiltrate is even better. In the untidy tangle, birds and bees can build nests and lay eggs, butterflies can hang cocoons, and slug-eating garden snakes can find shelter. A host of beneficial insects can also camp there, happily preying on insect garden pests.

Pollinator Homes & Gardens

To accommodate these beneficial creatures, it’s most helpful to grow plants that provide an ongoing sequence of blooms from late winter into late autumn. Make sure there are lots of flowers, since they offer pollen and nectar that feed native pollinators as well as European honeybees. Don’t worry if you don’t have acres wide to devote to the cause; even a few pots of long bloomers can support a significant number of bees (and what gardener doesn’t appreciate a righteous excuse to grow flowers?).

Here in Western Washington, the Ed Hume seed company sells packets of seed mixtures blended to nurture pollinators, including hummingbirds and butterflies as well as all sorts of bees. This is good, since there are hundreds if not thousands of native bee species in these parts, from mason bees and leafcutter bees to digger bees and carpenter bees. Most are solitary bees, which don’t live in colonial hives. Instead, they make homes in tangles of grass, in empty shells, in hollow logs or abandoned rodent runs.

Promoting Pollinators Promotes Produce

Solitary bees lay eggs that hatch into larva (white Pillsbury dough boy puffsters), then become pupa (bug-eyed baby space aliens) before turning into adults. Solitary bees can be generalists, resilient species that willingly visit many kinds of flowers, or specialists that can’t survive without very specific plant species. Bumble bees are the only native bees that are colonial, like honeybees, but they are seasonal workers that die at summer’s end. Only young, fertilized queens will hibernate until spring, when they awaken to start creating new colonies.

To please this wide array of bee species, the folks at Ed Hume Seeds consulted with the Xerces Society For Invertebrate Conservation, an extremely effective entity founded by Robert Michael Pyle (a fellow Washingtonian). The mix they put together contains some 18 species of wildflowers, including lance leaved coreopsis, purple coneflower, sunflower, perennial lupine, annual lupine, blanketflower, crimson clover, partridge pea, california poppy, Mexican hat, cosmos, lacy phacelia, plains coreopsis, butterfly milkweed, blue sage, poached egg flower, meadow-foam, Rocky Mountain penstemon, lemon mint, and bee balm. Obviously there are many non-native species mixed in, but overall, it is a blend designed to appeal to and nurture native solitary bees, bumble bees, honey bees, butterflies, and  hummingbirds from spring into autumn. Having these pollinators around will boost crops of many fruits as well as tomatoes, peppers, squash, and cucumbers, and the produce will be heftier as well.

Here’s the link to learn more about Xerces: http://www.xerces.org/story/

Posted in Growing Berry Crops, pests and pesticides, Pollinators, Sustainable Gardening, Sustainable Living, Tomatoes | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Plants That Increase Happiness & Harvest

Floral Abundance Promotes Pollinators

Like most gardeners, I welcome any excuse to grow more flowers. Therefore, it’s very good news that by raising as wide a variety of blooms as possible, we are doing our bit to aid and abet pollinators. Native pollinators and European honeybees alike are currently endangered by loss of habitat, virulent diseases that attack weakened insects, and widespread pesticide use and abuse. This is bad news for people who enjoy eating a variety of food, since a good third of the most popular human crops require insect pollinators, from almonds to zucchini.

While bees get a lot of the press, their distress is shared by dozens if not hundreds of native pollinators, from mosquitoes (which pollinate blueberries and bog orchids) to bats (which pollinate night bloomers, such as datura and agave). Birds too, though they mostly pollinate sunset-colored flowers with little or no fragrance. Here in the Northwest, hummingbirds prefer tubular flowers such as those on our native honeysuckles. Even butterflies do their part, though lacking in pollen-transporting abilities, chiefly drawn to nectar-rich flowers like buddleia as well as columbines, thistles, and goldenrod.

More Blooms Mean Better Bugs

When diverse and abundant pollinator populations thrive, so do farm and garden crops of many kinds, from berries and tree fruit to the squash and cabbage families. For instance, when notoriously productive zucchini plants fail to set fruit, it’s usually because there are too few pollinators around. A zucchini can be fully pollinated by 10-15 visits from a native squash bee, but it might take 2-3 times that for a less efficient honeybee to accomplish the same task. Lacking that volume of traffic, zucchini will form incompletely, failing to fully develop. Thorough pollination results not only in more fruits and vegetables, but often in significantly larger ones. Thus, supporting a wide variety of pollinators will positively impact our garden’s fruitfulness.

Naturally enough, many native pollinators prefer nectar and pollen from native plants, but many will also forage happily on non-native ornamentals of many kinds. Each specific pollinator has its own preferences but they also share some general favorites, so you don’t need a text book to create and enticing habitat. Pollinators that congregate on native huckleberries will also visit blueberries and other ericaceous plants, from heathers and heaths to salal and  manzanitas. Those that thrive on native roses or columbines or  penstemons will also feed happily on more ornamental versions, though single blossoms will be more heavily visited than doubles, which can be difficult for pollinators to access.

Pretty & Practical

Some folks think of native plants as frumpy, but there are some serious showboats amongst them. Here in the maritime Northwest, various species of California lilac (Ceanothus) provide sheets of brilliant bloom from spring into summer. Puget Blue forms a rounded mound some 6 feet high and wide, covered with fine textured, deep green foliage and lake blue flowers in astonishing abundance, while Joyce Coulter forms a wide, spreading mound smothered in soft blue and compact Snow Flurry blooms in icy white. All kinds and colors of Ceanothus are prized by all kinds and sizes of bees which flock to feed on the abundant nectar, while several native butterflies feed on the crisp, crinkled foliage.

Ocean spray (Holodiscus discolor) is one of my own favorite natives, spilling its creamy floral fountains in May and June (usually). Deciduous and arching in form, ocean spray can reach to 20 feet, though 10 is more typical. It’s a butterfly favorite too, both as a larval host and nectar producer, making it equally popular with native bees. So is the native Pacific rhododendron, which is also a larval butterfly host and a magnet for hummingbirds as well as bees and butterflies in blossom season.

Handsome & Toothsome

Flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) is a stunner from mid spring into summer, its dangling clusters of blossoms attracting birds, bees and butterflies alike. The red forms in particular are favored by hummingbirds, which often dive bomb each other in fierce territorial disputation. Handsome serviceberry (Amelanchier species) can be shrubby or form small trees, covered in spring with fluffy off-white flowers followed by tender fruit that tastes as good to birds as humans.

Serviceberry nectar attracts hummingbirds as well as native bees and butterflies, some of which also use the plant as a larval host. Humble salal is no stunning beauty, but the glossy foliage is a flower arranger’s staple and a butterfly staple as well as a larval host, and the nectar is appreciated by native and honeybees. Visiting Monarch butterflies will flock to the native Northwestern milkweeds, especially Asclepias speciosa, which can be grown throughout the maritime regions.

Garden Variety Nectar Sources

Many non-native garden plants will find plenty of takers when in bloom, especially long flowering catmints. These easy to please perennials produce soft blue flowers over a very long season and are usually abuzz with a variety of bees, hoverflies, and butterflies which relish both nectar and pollen. All sorts of herbs, from mints to sage, will also nurture pollinators. Both rosemaries and lavenders can attract all kinds of bees, and in the space of half an hour, you might see bumblebees, carpenter bees, digger bees, honeybees, and even the curious little leaf-cutter bees coming to dine.

You’ll also spot lots of kinds of bees on the spiky blue plumes of Russian sage, as well as hummingbirds and butterflies. Sunflowers too attract native bees and butterflies, as do California poppies, sweet alyssum, zinnias, and many other colorful annuals. Grow as many as you can find room for and you’ll have flowers galore and a garden that’s lively and life supporting for the beautiful, fascinating pollinators that bring such bounty to our tables.

Want to know more? Check out these links:

http://www.xerces.org/pollinator-conservation/

http://www.pollinator.org/PDFs/Identifying_Native_Bees_PosterFINAL.pdf

http://www.pollinator.org/PDFs/Guides/PacificLowlandrx9FINAL.pdf

http://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/pollinators/animals/butterflies.shtml

Posted in Easy Care Perennials, Gardening With Children, Nutrition, pests and pesticides, Pollinators, Sustainable Gardening, Sustainable Living | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

No To Peat Moss, Yes To Dairy Manure

Sustainable Manure, Land Raped Peat Moss

I find it heartbreaking to see well-meaning people buying bales of peat moss. Old-think gardening promoted peat moss heavily, but all forms of sphagnum peat moss are harvested by destroying boggy natural habitats. Worst of all, this is truly senseless destruction, because peat moss isn’t helpful for our soil or plants.

What??? Yup!!! For starters, peat moss is very low in nutrients and it degrades too quickly to be an effective soil conditioner. In addition, it’s so acidic that it can kill bacteria, which is why sphagnum moss was used as bandaging material for centuries (maybe millennia). Wounds packed with clean sphagnum moss had a better chance of healing cleanly, and it was still used for British troops during WWII.

Peat Moss Damage And Dangers

Besides all that, peat moss makes a horrible top dressing. Top dressing is the final layer of a garden bed, usually consisting of an inch or two of fine textured mulch such as compost or aged dairy manure. This layer conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and promotes rapid root growth. Though often recommended, peat moss also makes a remarkably poor mulch, drying to an impervious, water-shedding (rather than water-conserving) mat in no time. Once dried out, peat is very difficult to rewet in garden soils and in peat based potting mixes, which is annoying and very hard on plants. Peat based potting mixes are light in weight, which is good if you are carrying the pots around, but also means wind can rock plants easily, distressing the roots.

Though fresh peat is highly acidic, when dried and baled, it can harbor spores of fungal diseases that can be dangerous to handlers. Nursery workers are warned by law to wear double gloves and micron filtration masks when handling peat moss. The gardener is not told anything, yet those who use peat moss regularly are at risk for fungal pneumonias and other illnesses.

Sustainable And Not So Sustainable

Finally, peat moss is not a renewable resource except in glacial terms. If you visit bogs that have been harvested for many years, you can see plainly that cuts made a century ago have barely begun to heal. Bogs are delicate, intricate environments that host hundreds of living fauna and flora. When bogs are destroyed by peat mining, companies are now forced to “restore” them, but the artificial, “managed” bogs never achieve the biodiversity of the original habitat. I’m not alone in this anti-peat campaign; Here’s a link to Ken Druse’s article on peat moss: http://gardenrant.com/2009/04/ken-druse-dishes-the-dirt-about-peat-moss.html

If peat is not a truly renewable resource, manures definitely are. One thing we can count on is that poop happens. However, it does matter which manure we choose. Initial testing of various kinds of animal manures at Oregon State University in Corvallis show that animal manures vary widely in their qualities. Horse manure, for example, is often contaminated with worming agents that continue to kill worms in compost and soil after passing through the horse. Horse manure mixed with bedding may contain clopyralid, a long-lasting pesticide that remains active indefinitely (it especially affects legumes, nightshades, and composites, which covers a lot of floral ground).

Washed Or Digested?

In stark contrast, aged dairy manure makes an excellent soil amendment and/or top dressing. Recent research indicates that a mulch of dairy manure can slow down or even halt the growth of certain soil pathogens, notably several root rots that are prevalent in the native soils of the Northwest. Most modern dairies have holding pits where manure is stored. The barns are washed down daily and the manure accumulates in the holding pits. The nitrogen-rich effluent is drawn off and returned to the fields where alfalfa and other fodder is grown. The washed manure is sold as a splendid soil amendment. Dairy manure from an organic dairy will not contain bovine growth hormone, steroids, or other “prophylactic” medications.

Digested cow manure is what’s left over after manure is mined for energy. Dairy manure solids (often mixed with field crop waste) are trucked to an anaerobic digester facility, where the methane is stripped out and converted to electricity, which gets sold to local power companies, partly offsetting trucking costs. Anaerobic digestion produces biogas (mainly methane and carbon dioxide) by composting organic materials in an oxygen-free environment. When manure breaks down outside, the biogas becomes a ‘greenhouse gas’, but when it’s captured in an anaerobic digester, the result is clean power and a big pile of digested poo. It’s not exactly like aged, composted manure, but it has similar nutrient levels, low pathogen levels, and is an excellent soil conditioner. Because it is not as aged, it does smell more ripe, as holiday visitors to my home have noted.

True Power Of Poop

Anaerobic digesters are hardly new, but today’s technology makes them far more efficient. In Washington State, dairy coops share local digesters to create energy and manage their mounds of manure. It took time to figure out how to get that end product into gardens, but today, you can buy it as bags of Magic Dirt, USDA certified, biobased potting soil that has been approved for organic growers by the Idaho Department of Agriculture.

Here’s more about digested manure: http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/FS172E/FS172E.pdf

farmpower.org

http://www.agweb.com/article/two-steps-forward-for-dairy-digesters-NAA-catherine-merlo/

http://www.usda.gov/wps/portal/usda/usdahome?

To find digested dairy manure in your area, contact your local Agricultural Extension agent. If you live in Western Washington, you can try Mark Vukich, who delivers both pit-washed dairy manure and digested dairy manure:
Mark Vukich
Moo Doo For You
(206) 271-6490
(253) 939-0627

If you aren’t near a digester, look for digested manure potting soil:
https://www.biocycle.net/2014/07/15/digested-dairy-manure-to-high-end-potting-soil/

Posted in composting, Garden Prep, Health & Wellbeing, Soil, Sustainable Gardening, Sustainable Living | Tagged , , | 5 Comments

Splendid Perennials Bring Borders to Life

Color, Texture, Shape…

I’m noticing a new trend these days: Gardeners are tucking more shrubs into borders and more perennials into pots. Both changes make good sense, since a well planned shrub-based border holds its looks all year in return for comparatively little maintenance. This is a plus both for the busy and the less able who may not bend or stoop with ease. Many gorgeous perennials can suffer or rot away altogether in heavy Northwestern clay soils, especially after a wet winter, so potting them up makes perfect sense, as long as the pot is capacious and well tended.

Admittedly, those efficient shrub borders can look a little static. Adding some grasses and a few choice, sturdy perennials will breathe life into their formality. Of course, it’s important to choose very carefully in order to avoid both maintenance issues and seasonally sloppy or barren looks. Avoid running grasses as well as weak or weedy ones with a single moment of glory (think Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Little Bunny’). Supple, flowing grasses such as Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) form large clumps that hold their own with solid-looking shrubs. Upright, reliably columnar grasses like Miscanthus sinensis Gracillimus provide contrasts of form and texture as well as gentle movement in any breeze.

Reliable Border Perennials

Traditional perennial borders require very high maintenance to look their best, which means significant overhauls every 3-5 years. Today’s mixed border model combines multi-season shrubs with sturdy perennials that also offer multiple attractions, as well as bulbs and grasses. The best of contemporary perennials are valuable contributors that don’t need staking, frequent division, or fussy care. For instance, while wild yarrow (Achillea) can be a garden pest, modern cultivars are both mannerly and shapely, bringing striking colors and strong horizontal lines to the border.

Long blooming and architectural, these new girls definitely deserve a place, notably Moonshine, with cool, lemony flowerheads above grey-green foliage, an especially effective blender for blues and purples. For the pastel color story, A. Appleblossom makes a gentle mass of pinks, from baby ribbon to delicate rose. Spunkier A. Paprika offers smoky to sparky shades of red, while Ortel’s Rose creates a complex run from cool lavender to vivid magenta-rose.

Bee-Loved Long Bloomers

Agastaches, called anise hyssop (though related to neither), are adored by all kinds of bees as well as hummingbirds. They thrive in open, sandy soils and do best in large containers where clay soils remain soggy all winter. These long blooming perennials provide an ongoing display from midsummer into autumn. The neoclassic Blue Fortune produces spires of dreaming blue, while Purple Haze takes ip up a notch into thunderhead shades. Some recent hybrids offer looser masses of vivid bells, notably the Arizona series, in shades of terra cotta, apricot, and gold, and the tawnier Summer series,  including coppery Summer Sunset and gentle peach Summer Glow.

Heartleaf (Bergenia cordifolia) is often used on rock walls and shade borders, though it can take full sun in good soil. Its large, round, glossy leaves read powerfully with boulders and supple grasses such as pheasant’s tail (Anemanthele lessoniana) and hazy pink muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris). It can hold its own in a shrubby border as well, providing a strong contrast to feathery foliage as well as needled evergreens. The variety Winterglow takes on ruddy pink tints in winter, regaining its summery green each year.

Deer Resistant Toughies

The spurge family (Euphorbia) is deer proof, hardy, and handsome, and includes many excellent garden plants as well as a few rogues. I’m a sucker for wood spurges like Euphorbia amygdaloides Ruby Glow, a smoldering beauty with dusky purple foliage set aflame by ember red new growth. It grows happily in shade or sun and seeds itself about in a mild sort of way, never a pest since the plants are fairly short lived. Sculptural E. characias is a noble creature with many fabulous variations, such as Black Pearl, with tall stalks of green blossoms with snapping black eyes. Glacier Blue offer frosty foliage in silver and blue, while Silver Swan is even cooler in soft jade trimmed in ice. E. x martinii Ascot Rainbow makes a delectable, almost shrublike two-foot mound with foliage like frozen fireworks in delicate rainbow shades.

Evergreen hellebores are strong performers whose winter or spring flowers often linger well into early summer. The dangling blossoms turn upward when pollinated, so let some go to seed if you want to develop your own strain, or have enough babies to plant in sweeps under trees and large shrubs. If you cut off the old foliage as soon as it heads earthwards, you can avoid the leaf spotting that disfigures older leaves. Corsican hellebores are queenly, statuesque plants with strong, dramatic foliage and great clusters of ice green flowers that persist for months. All hellebores prefer partial to full shade but tolerate morning sun very well.

Edible Gems

Laid out like a candy box in ruffled rows, French vegetable gardens can be as lovely as any flower border. Even if you aren’t growing your own food, a number of new vegetables qualify as genuine border beauties worthy of bed room. For instance, Kale Darkibor is an edible showboat with midnight purple, intensely ruffled foliage on two foot stems, making a murky mass that perfectly offsets neighbors that bloom in lemon, coral, peach, copper, salmon or rose, as well as chartreuse and golden foliage plants.

Flat out gorgeous, Basil Purple Ball is a dwarf small-leaf basil with glossy purple leaves. This European award winner forms vivid purple mounds that easily earn front row spots in an ornamental bed. So will Compact Summer Savory, a tidy, upright form of this standard kitchen herb that partners the warm, earthy flavor of its fresh green foliage with a markedly improved habit. Any or all of these dazzlers can enliven a staid shrubbery or add luster to a lush container planting.

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